The New Town seems to have developed along a line of local politics all
its own and at variance with that of its very close neighbours, Old
Town, Vyšehrad and Mala Strana. Their local politicians did not lack
initiative; no one can accuse them of that failing. I can recall one
instance as example. During the days when the Protestants of Prague, in
their religious ardour, had split up into at least two distinct and
hostile parties, a procession of Utraquists, priests leading with the
Host, passed by the New Town Hall. Some one threw a brick and hit a
priest, thereupon the populace stormed the Town Hall and hurled Mayor
and Corporation out of the window; those of the victims who still showed
signs of life were dispatched with clubs--in fact, a clean-up of
municipal authorities took place. Public spirited certainly,
unconventional, you may say; but if the Bohemian is to have no power of
imagination, who may?
In the days of Wenceslaus IV the fashionable centre of Prague seems to
have been shifted from the impressive Hradšany side to the Old Town.
The King himself preferred to live in close touch with his people; he
wanted to see life--he certainly made it, for Wenceslaus when young was
quite "one of the lads of the village." Let us look up that good King's
haunts. On crossing the Charles Bridge from the Mala Strana to the Old
Town we keep straight along the Karlova Ulice--that is, as straight as
you can along this narrow old street by which Charles must have made his
way to the Carolinum. I have already pointed out to you the dome which
surmounts the home of the Red Cross Knights, the Knights Crucifer, and
told you that this building and the church that stands somewhat apart on
your left, behind the statue of Charles IV, is the work of the Jesuits.
We may go in by the wide gateway into this mass of buildings, the
Clementinum, also part of the University, but this is guide-book
business, and I prefer to take you my own way. So we go along the
crooked street past a bunch of churches, one of which is the longest in
Prague; you may see their bulbous towers from my terrace, or your own if
you get the right point of view. These churches do not interest me
particularly except for a lovely bit of wrought-iron railing belonging
to the Italian Chapel, just where the street takes a slight twist. Here
you have quaint old houses, with red-tiled roofs and dormer windows. One
of them seems inclined to impede the progress of the traffic, and the
street bends slightly away to the right to oblige this building. There
are quaint ornamentations on the narrow side of this house facing us,
human figures and wreaths, and in the centre of the design a star. This
old house has a little story to tell. Long ago, possibly in the
sixteenth century, it was an inn, or a lodging-house, was said to be
haunted, so the great-grandson of the last innkeeper there gave up
taking lodgers and became a confectioner. One winter's evening, probably
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account