Then you may wander on past Strahov and over open rolling country to the
battlefield of the White Mountain and to the Star, those places of
tragic memory in the history of Bohemia. It is usual to speak
slightingly of the immediate environment of Prague as being
uninteresting and indeed unlovely; I protest strongly against this, and
that because I have traversed the fields and lanes on foot, not dashing
through the landscape in a motor-car, and therefore claim to have seen
the scenery round about the capital. The citizens of Prague seem to be
of my way of thinking, to judge by the numbers that set out on Sundays
to the heights that encompass the town on its western side. The good
people of Prague enjoy their Sunday beer in the Star Park Restaurant,
and take their walks abroad among the pleasant valleys that run down to
the river on its left bank. From the plateau of the White Mountain you
may find your way into one of these pleasant valleys, that of the
Šarka. You enter it by a narrow rocky gorge, and as it has a
distinctly romantic look, legend has fastened on to it and echoes a tale
of Bohemian Amazons led by a lady of the name of Šarka, who was
discontented with the dominance of mere man. The legend is somewhat
obscure, but as the Bohemians, like other people, prefer a happy ending
to their stories (they have till recently known but few in their own
history), we may take it that the Amazonian ladies arrived at the
natural issue out of their troubles. Amongst these rocks is an open-air
theatre where concerts are given; here one glorious Sunday afternoon in
autumn I was once again privileged to hear Kubelik play.
The Šarka brook trips along gaily towards the Vltava under
overhanging rocks, by wooded slopes and fresh meadows. It tries to be
useful in driving the "Devil's Mill"; that sinister personage seems to
have started quite a number of such concerns in Bohemia. It is a
pleasant little place, tucked away among rocks and trees, and its chief
business appears to be the supplying of refreshments. Of the occasional
rocks that jut out above the trees, one claims to be the jumping-off
place of a Prague damsel who was tired of life; such places are pretty
frequent in all scenery with any pretence to romance. Given a rocky
eminence, you will always find that somebody or other has leapt
therefrom and thus given it a name, the "Maiden's Leap" or the "Knight's
Leap." It is obvious, for instance, that the Vyšehrad, the rocky
eminence on which stood the first castle of Bohemia's rulers before ever
Prague was built, should have a jumping-off story. A knight was
imprisoned in the Vyšehrad Castle; he asked leave to ride round the
castle, for change of air no doubt, when suddenly he wheeled about, put
his horse at the river and leapt--of course he got safely away. Let us
hope that the damsel of Prague who leapt into the Šarka Valley also
fell soft and got away.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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