From Berlin to Bagdad and BabylonZahm, J. A. (John Augustine)
HistoryChristian
From Berlin to Bagdad and Babylon
Zahm, J. A. (John Augustine)
Middle East -- Civilization; Middle East -- Description and travel
The raft in question is called a kelek. It is composed of a large
number of inflated goat or sheep skins which are kept united by reeds.
Over these is laid a framework made of saplings or scantlinglike
timbers which are held together by twigs or lianas. No nails or screws
whatever are used. If the skins be continually kept moist and properly
inflated, the framework of the kelek will always remain above water,
even when bearing a considerable load.
Thanks to our good Dominican hosts, the work of constructing our
kelek was specially expedited after the workmen knew exactly the
size and kind of craft we desired. And to our great joy it was ready
for us as soon as we were prepared to start on our journey down the
river. It was fifteen by twenty feet in dimensions and counted a
hundred and seventy-five inflated skins. In the middle of the kelek
we had a good-sized tent in which we had two light cots, three light
folding chairs, a folding writing table, ten pockets, and other
things which occupy little space but which we found by previous
experience contributed immensely to the convenience and comfort of
the traveler whether on land or water. Most of our luggage, as well
as our provisions, was left outside of the tent in care of our good
and faithful Simoun, a middle-aged Chaldean who had been specially
recommended to us by our Dominican friends and who was guaranteed to
give us devoted and intelligent service. He took charge of everything
on the kelek and looked after the kelekgis--rowers--cook, and the
commissary department as well as our comfort and pleasure. Certain
Greeks and Armenians had applied for the position which we gave to
Simoun, but our experience with their countrymen had been such that we
had resolved to entrust ourselves thenceforth to the much abused and
little-understood Chaldean. For honesty, reliability, devotedness, a
Christian Chaldean, like an Osmanli Turk from the interior of Anatolia,
is, in any fiduciary capacity, absolutely unsurpassed.
When we actually found ourselves on our kelek, ready to depart for
Bagdad, we felt as happy as schoolboys starting on a vacation. It meant
at least a week of absolute rest--a rest which, after the strenuous
lives we had been leading since we left Constantinople, was most
welcome.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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