From Berlin to Bagdad and BabylonZahm, J. A. (John Augustine)
HistoryChristian
From Berlin to Bagdad and Babylon
Zahm, J. A. (John Augustine)
Middle East -- Civilization; Middle East -- Description and travel
We started on our journey down the Tigris under a cloudless sky. During
the early morning it had been quite chilly, but, as the sun rose in the
heavens, the atmosphere became as balmy as that of a morning in May.
All augured a pleasant voyage; and no sooner had the minarets of Mosul
and Nebi Yunus vanished from our sight than we proceeded to give the
interior of our tent as homelike an appearance as circumstances would
permit. Simoun had decked the opening of the tent with some flowers
that our kind friends had brought us. On our writing table we placed
some of our favorite books. Among these was a small copy in India
paper of the Bible which was in constant use during our journey in the
Orient. Another was a small pocket edition of the _Divina Commedia_
which, for years, had been my companion to the most distant parts of
the world. There were also small editions of the _Soliloquia_ of St.
Augustine and of the select works of St. Teresa. I took these last two
books with me because they, like Dante’s immortal poem, had been old
and cherished friends in other lands and because they seemed peculiarly
appropriate for such a journey as the one we were then undertaking. To
these were added copies of Xenophon’s _Anabasis_, Arrian’s _Anabasis of
Alexander_, and _The Oxford Book of English Verse_. The other books I
had brought with me I left in my trunk, as I expected to spend most of
my time on our way down the river in contemplation of the many objects
of interest with which both banks were everywhere studded.
A great part of the land in the vicinity of Mosul is under cultivation.
Wheat and barley are grown in abundance. Hemp is also cultivated but
more attention is given to cotton, especially along the banks and on
the islands which diversify the river. Melons seem to be as popular
along the Tigris as they are among our dusky population south of Mason
and Dixon’s line.
Much of the land in this region is very fertile and, if irrigated as it
was three thousand years ago, would yield harvests as extraordinary as
ever in the past. But the countless vicissitudes, consequent on wars
innumerable and on inefficient government, through which this ill-fated
region has passed since the fall of Nineveh, have not been conducive to
the development of agriculture nor to the economic growth of what was
once the wealthiest country of Western Asia.
I have been on many rivers but I have never found so much genuine
intellectual pleasure on any of them as on the Tigris. It has not,
indeed, the natural beauties of the Hudson or the Columbia, of the
Rhine or the Danube; but it has something that appealed to me
far more than the attractions for which these famous waterways of
America and Europe are so justly celebrated. Charged with the myths
and the legends, the traditions and the historical associations of
six millennia, it offers to the thoughtful student subjects for
consideration that cannot be found elsewhere.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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