From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.Bates, Katharine Lee
General
From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.
Bates, Katharine Lee
England -- Description and travel
If the ghosts of the Second Augustan Legion could return for an hour
to this their frontier station, deep in the British wilds, they would
find ranged and labelled in a neat museum shards of their pottery,
broken votive tablets, fragments of sculptured figures, among them a
Medusa whose stony stare might seem to have taken effect, urns whose
ashes were long since scattered, bits of mosaic pavement, coins,
lamps, needles, hairpins, waifs and strays of their "unconsidered
trifles." But the fainter wraith of King Arthur would discover no more
than a weedy mound and hollow in a ragged field, where autumnal
dandelions keep the only glints of his golden memory. We met there an
old labourer stooping beneath the heavy sack upon his shoulder. He
told us that the mound was Arthur's Round Table, but as for the
hollow--apparently the site of a Roman open amphitheatre--he could
only shake his grey head and confide: "They do say as was a grand
palace there long ago and one day it all sunk under,--sunk way down
into the ground."
The Usk, which has reflected such lost splendours, empties into the
broad estuary of the Severn a little lower down than the Wye which
rejoins the greater river at Chepstow. The Severn, which has its
rising not two miles from the Wye in the Welsh mountains, makes a
wider sweep to the east, crossing Shropshire, Worcester, and
Gloucester. Worcester, indeed, mainly consists of the Middle Severn
valley, with ranges of low hills on either side. This fertile basin
abounds, like the Hereford vale of the Wye, in apple-orchards and
pear-orchards, hop-gardens and wheat-fields, but the enterprising
little shire has developed, too, a number of manufacturing industries.
On the north it runs up into the Black Country of Staffordshire;
Dudley, Stourbridge, and Oldbury are murky with the smoke and smudge
of factory chimneys. Glass is a specialty of Stourbridge, carpets of
Kidderminster, salt of Droitwich, and needles and fishhooks of
Redditch. Nail-making used to be the bread and beer of ten thousand
cottages at the foot of the Clent and Lickey Hills.
But intermingled with its thriving crafts and trades is another wealth
of historic associations and natural beauties. In the dense woods
which once covered the county, hostile bands have dodged or sought one
another from time immemorial, notably during the Civil Wars of Simon
de Montfort and of the Roses. Even so late as the Parliamentary War,
there remained forest enough to do good service to a fugitive. It was
in an oak of Boscobel Wood, on the Salop border, that after the
disastrous battle of Worcester
"the younger Charles abode
Till all the paths were dim,
And far below the Roundhead rode
And hummed a surly hymn."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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