From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.Bates, Katharine Lee
General
From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.
Bates, Katharine Lee
England -- Description and travel
It must be confessed that Knutsford is becoming villaized. It has
even suffered the erection, in memory of Mrs. Gaskell, of an ornate
Italian tower, which Deborah certainly would not have approved. It was
not May-day, so we could not witness the Knutsford revival of the
May-queen court, and we looked in vain for the Knutsford wedding sand.
On those very rare occasions when a bridegroom can be found, the kith
and kin of the happy pair make a welcoming path for Hymen by trickling
coloured sands through a funnel so as to form a pavement decoration of
hearts, doves, true-love knots, and the like, each artist in front of
his own house. But no minor disappointments could break the Cranford
spell, which still held us as we drove out into the surrounding
country. How sunny and serene! With what awe we passed the timbered
mansions of the county families! What green hedgerows! What golden
harvest-fields! What pink roses clambering to the cottage-thatch! What
gardens, and what pastures on pastures, grazed over by sleek kine that
called to mind Miss Matty's whimsical old lover and his "six and
twenty cows, named after the different letters of the alphabet."
Here in central Cheshire we ought not to have been intent on scenery,
but on salt, for of this, as of silk, our smiling county has almost a
monopoly. And only too soon the blue day was darkened by the smoke of
Northwich, the principal seat of the salt trade and quite the dirtiest
town in the county. The valley of the Weaver, the river that crosses
Cheshire about midway between its northern boundary, the Mersey, and
its southern, the Dee, has the richest salt-mines and brine-springs of
England. The salt towns, whose chimneys belch blackness at intervals
along the course of the stream, are seen at their best, or worst, in
Northwich, though Nantwich, an ancient centre of this industry, has
charming traditions of the village hymn that used to be sung about the
flower-crowned pits, especially the "Old Brine," on Ascension Day, in
thanksgiving for the salt. We tried to take due note of railways and
canals, docks and foundries, and the queer unevenness of the soil
caused by the mining and the pumping up of brine,--such an uncertain
site that the houses, though bolted, screwed, and buttressed,
continually sag and sink. The mines themselves are on the outskirts of
the town, and we looked at the ugly sheds and scaffoldings above
ground, and did our best to imagine the strange white galleries and
gleaming pillars below. There was no time to go down because it had
taken our leisurely Knutsford coachman till ten o'clock to get his
"bit of breakfast." Dear Miss Matty would have been gentle with him,
and so we strove not to glower at his unbending back, but to gather in
what we could, as he drove us to the train, of the beauties by the
way.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account