From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.Bates, Katharine Lee
General
From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.
Bates, Katharine Lee
England -- Description and travel
We left the salt to the care of the Weaver, which was duly bearing it
on, white blocks, ruddy lumps, rock-salt and table-salt, to Runcorn
and to Liverpool. We put the brine-pits out of mind, and enjoyed the
lovely fresh-water meres, social resorts of the most amiable of ducks
and the most dignified of geese, which dot the Cheshire landscape. We
had visited Rostherne Mere on our way out, and caught a glint from the
fallen church-bell which a Mermaid rings over those dim waters every
Easter dawn. We paused at Lower Peover for a glimpse of its
black-and-white timbered church, deeply impressive and almost unique
as an architectural survival. Among its curiosities we saw a chest
hollowed out of solid oak with an inscription to the effect that any
girl who can raise the lid with one arm is strong enough to be a
Cheshire farmer's wife. Sturdy arms they needs must have, these
Cheshire women, for the valley of the Weaver, like the more southerly
Vale of Dee, is largely given up to dairy farms and to the production
of cheeses. A popular song betrays the county pride:
"A Cheshire man went o'er to Spain
To trade in merchandise,
And when arrived across the main
A Spaniard there he spies.
"'Thou Cheshire man,' quoth he, 'look here,--
These fruits and spices fine.
Our country yields these twice a year;
Thou hast not such in thine.'
"The Cheshire man soon sought the hold,
Then brought a Cheshire cheese.
'You Spanish dog, look here!' said he.
'You have not such as these.'
"'Your land produces twice a year
Spices and fruits, you say,
But such as in my hand I bear.
Our land yields twice a day.'"
But the best songs of Cheshire go to the music of the river Dee. We
have all had our moments of envying its heart-free Miller.
"There was a jolly Miller once
Lived on the river Dee;
He worked and sang from morn till night,
No lark more blithe than he;
And this the burden of his song
Forever used to be:
_I care for nobody, no, not I,
And nobody cares for me_."
Kingsley's tragic lyric of
"Mary, go and call the cattle home
Across the sands of Dee,"
reports too truly the perils of that wide estuary where Lycidas was
lost. On the corresponding estuary of the Mersey stands Birkenhead,
the bustling modern port of Cheshire; but it was at Chester that
Milton's college mate had embarked for another haven than the one he
reached.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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