From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.Bates, Katharine Lee
General
From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.
Bates, Katharine Lee
England -- Description and travel
A few miles to the northwest of Coventry lies the village of Meriden,
which is called the centre of England. There on a tableland is a
little pool from which the water flows both west and east, on the one
side reaching the Severn and the British Channel, on the other the
Trent and the North Sea. "Leafy Warwickshire" is watered, as all the
world knows, by the Avon. The county, though its borders show here and
there a hilly fringe, and though the spurs of the Cotswolds invade it
on the south, is in the main a fertile river-basin, given over to
agriculture and to pasturage. The forest of Arden, that once covered
the Midlands, is still suggested by rich-timbered parks and giant
trees of ancient memory. On the north, Warwickshire tapers up into the
Staffordshire coal-fields and puts on a manufacturing character. The
great town of this district is Birmingham, capital of the hardware
industries.
It was from Birmingham that we started out on our Warwickshire trip.
We had but a hasty impression of a well-built, prosperous, purposeful
town, but if we had known at the time what masterpieces of the
Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood were to be seen in the Art Gallery we would
have taken a later train than we did for Nuneaton. Here we bade
farewell to railways, having decided to "post" through the county. Our
automobile scamper across Staffordshire had left us with a conviction
that this mode of travel was neither democratic nor becoming,--least
of all adapted to a literary pilgrimage. We preferred to drive
ourselves, but the English hostlers, shaking their stolid heads,
preferred that we should be driven. It was only by a lucky chance that
we had found, in the Lake Country, a broad-minded butcher who would
trust us on short expeditions with "Toby" and a pony-cart. After all,
it is easier to adapt yourself to foreign ways than to adapt them to
you, and the old, traditional, respectable method of travel in England
is by post. The regular rate for a victoria--which carries light
luggage--and a single horse is a shilling a mile, with no charge for
return, but with a considerable tip to the driver. In out-of-the-way
places the rate was sometimes only ninepence a mile, but in the
regions most affected by tourists it might run up to eighteenpence. So
at Nuneaton we took a carriage for Coventry, a distance, with the
digressions we proposed, of about twelve miles, and set out, on a fair
August afternoon, to explore the George Eliot country.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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