From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.Bates, Katharine Lee
General
From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.
Bates, Katharine Lee
England -- Description and travel
Our driver looked blank at the mention of George Eliot, but brightened
at the name of Mary Anne Evans. He could not locate for us, however,
the school which she had attended in Nuneaton, but assured us that
"Mr. Jones 'ud know." To consult this oracle we drove through a
prosaic little town, dodging the flocks of sheep that were coming in
for the fair, to a stationer's shop. Mr. Jones, the photographer of
the neighbourhood, proved to be as well versed in George Eliot
literature and George Eliot localities as he was generous in imparting
his knowledge. He mapped out our course with all the concern and
kindliness of a host, and practically conferred upon us the freedom of
the city.
Nuneaton was as placidly engaged in making hats and ribbons as if the
foot of genius had never hallowed its soil, and went its ways,
regardless while we peered out at inns and residences mirrored in
George Eliot's writings. The school to which Robert Evans' "little
lass" used to ride in on donkeyback every morning, as the farmers'
daughters ride still, is The Elms on Vicarage Street,--a plain bit of
a place, with its bare walls and hard forms, to have been the scene of
the awakening of that keen intelligence. We were duly shown the
cloak-closet, to reach whose hooks a girl of eight or nine must have
had to stand on tiptoe, the small classrooms, and the backyard that
served as a playground. The educational equipment was of the
simplest,--but what of that? Hamlet could have been "bounded in a
nutshell," and here there was space enough for thought. A Nuneaton
lady, lodging with the caretaker during the vacation, told us with a
touch of quiet pride that her husband had known "Marian Evans" well in
their young days, and had often walked home with her of an evening
from the rectory.
As we drove away toward that rectory in Chilvers Coton, the parish
adjoining Nuneaton on the south, we could almost see the little
schoolgirl riding homeward on her donkey. It is Maggie Tulliver, of
"The Mill on the Floss," who reveals the nature of that tragic child,
"a creature full of eager and passionate longing for all that was
beautiful and glad; thirsty for all knowledge; with an ear straining
after dreamy music that died away, and would not come near to her;
with a blind, unconscious yearning for something that would link
together the wonderful impressions of this mysterious life, and give
her soul a sense of home in it."
Chilvers Coton, like Nuneaton, has no memories of its famous woman of
letters. The only time we saw her name that afternoon was as we drove,
two hours later, through a grimy colliery town where a row of posters
flaunted the legend:
ASK FOR GEORGE ELIOT SAUCE.
But in the Chilvers Coton church, familiar to readers of "Scenes from
Clerical Life," is a window given by Mr. Isaac Evans in memory of his
wife, not of his sister, with an inscription so like Tom Tulliver's
way of admonishing Maggie over the shoulder that we came near
resenting it:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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