From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.Bates, Katharine Lee
General
From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.
Bates, Katharine Lee
England -- Description and travel
We had even a disloyal impulse of sympathy for these kinsfolk of
genius, who must needs pay the price by having their inner natures
laid bare before the world, but we checked it. Our worlds, little or
large, are bound to say and believe something concerning us: let us be
content in proportion as it approximates the truth.
Our road to Coventry ran through a mining district. Every now and then
we met groups of black-faced colliers. Robert Evans must often have
driven his daughter along this way, for in her early teens she was at
school in the City of the Three Spires, and later on, when her widowed
father resigned to his son his duties as land agent, and Griff House
with them, she removed there with him to make him a new home. The
house is still to be seen in Foleshill road, on the approach from the
north; but here the star of George Eliot pales before a greater
glory, the all-eclipsing splendour, for at Coventry we are on the
borders of the Shakespeare country.
Stratford-on-Avon lies only twenty miles to the south, and what were
twenty miles to the creator of Ariel and Puck? Surely his young
curiosity must have brought him early to this
"Quaint old town of toil and trouble,
Quaint old town of art and song."
The noble symmetries of St. Michael's, its companion spires of Holy
Trinity and Grey Friars, the narrow streets and over-jutting
housetops, the timber-framed buildings, the frescoed walls and carven
window-heads, all that we see to-day of the mediæval fashion he must
have seen in fresher beauty, and far more; yet even then the glory of
Coventry had departed. From the eleventh century, when Leofric, Earl
of Mercia, and his Countess of beloved memory, the Lady Godiva, built
their magnificent abbey, of which hardly a trace remains, the city had
been noted for its religious edifices. Its triple-spired cathedral of
St. Mary,--existing to-day in but a few foundation fragments,--its
monasteries and nunneries and churches of the various orders formed
an architectural group unmatched in England. Coventry was conspicuous,
too, for civic virtues. As its merchants increased in riches, they
lavished them freely on their queenly town. The Earl in his now
crumbled castle and the Lord Abbot had hitherto divided the rule, but
in 1345 came the first Mayor. It was while the Rose-red Richard sat so
gaily on his rocking throne that Coventry celebrated the completion of
its massive walls, three miles in circuit, with twelve gates and
thirty-two towers. In the middle of the fifteenth century it received
a special charter, and Henry VI declared it "the best governed city in
all his realm." It was then that the famous guilds of Coventry were at
their height, for its merchants had waxed wealthy in the wool trade,
and its artisans were cunning at cloth-making.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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