From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.Bates, Katharine Lee
General
From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.
Bates, Katharine Lee
England -- Description and travel
Our first seeing of the name of Warwick in Warwickshire was over a
green-grocer's shop in Coventry. The green-grocer was all very well,
but the sewing-machine factories and, worse yet, the flourishing
business in bicycles and motor-cars jarred on our sixteenth-century
dream. I am ashamed to confess how speedily we accomplished our
Coventry sightseeing, and how early, on the day following our arrival,
we took the road again. We set out in our sedate victoria with high
expectations, for we had been told over and over that the route from
Coventry to Warwick was "the most beautiful drive in England." For
most of the distance we found it a long, straight, level avenue,
bordered by large trees. There were few outlooks; clouds of dust hung
in the air, and gasoline odours trailed along the way. We counted it,
as a drive, almost the dullest of our forty odd, but it was good
roading, and the opinion of the horse may have been more favourable.
Five miles brought us to Kenilworth, about whose stately ruins were
wandering the usual summer groups of trippers and tourists. Its ivies
were at their greenest and its hollies glistened with an emerald
sheen, but when I had last seen the castle, in a far-away October,
those hollies were yet more beautiful with gold-edged leaves and with
ruby berries. Then, as now, the lofty red walls seemed to me to wear
an aspect, if not of austerity, at least of courtly reserve, as if,
whoever might pry and gossip, their secrets were still their own. In
point of fact, the bewitchments of Sir Walter Scott have made it
well-nigh impossible for any of us to bear in mind that in the ancient
fortress of Kenilworth King John was wont to lurk, spinning out his
spider-webs, that Simon de Montfort once exercised gay lordship here,
and here, in sterner times, held Henry III and Prince Edward
prisoners; that these towers witnessed the humiliation of the woful
Edward II, and that in these proud halls the mirth-loving Queen Bess
had been entertained by the Earl of Leicester on three several
occasions prior to the famous visit of 1575. On her first coming our
poet was a prattler of two--if only Mistress Shakespeare had kept a
"Baby Record"!--and I am willing to admit that the event may not have
interested him. When her second royal progress excited Warwickshire,
he was a four-year-old, teasing his mother for fairy stories, and
peeping into the acorn-cups for hidden elves, but hardly likely to
have been chosen to play the part of Cupid while
"the imperial votaress passèd on,
In maiden meditation, fancy-free."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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