From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's EndHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
General
From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's End
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel
Pirates there are not at Penzance, and nothing approaching them, unless
we except these German band-itti; but they are, indeed, or were, when
last I heard them, desperate characters, who would think nothing of
murdering “The Mikado” or “The Gondoliers.” Indeed, they have done
so many times, and will again, unless some action is taken in the
matter. I shudder to think how many fine and robust comic operas
have been done to death on moonlit nights upon the esplanade in front
of the Queen’s Hotel, or in the gloomy by-ways of the Morrab Road.
I have seen these bravos standing in a circle round their helpless
victim, and noted the brazen flash of their deadly weapons, and heard
the agonising demi-semi-quavers of his dying notes as the remorseless
band blew out his bars. Ah! sometimes, when they little thought their
criminal deeds were overheard, I have listened a while to them making
shameful overtures to their captives, and have presently hurried away,
fingers to ears, to shut out the fearful shrieks which such deeds
have produced. What class of people is it that supports these hired
assassins? Alas! I know not, but that they are supported is a solemn
fact. So callous are some of these folk that--I assure you it is
so--I have actually seen them place bribes in the hand of the chief
miscreant, and have observed them loitering by, with heartless smiles
of approval, until the deed was done. What harmony, what tender chords
can exist in a town where such doings fall flat upon accustomed ears?
[Illustration: PENZANCE from above Gulval]
And yet the place looks so fresh, so fair, so happy. It is ten miles
from the Land’s End; the wail of the Cockney concertina is never heard
within these gates; and Plymouth, the nearest large town, is eighty-one
miles away. Penzance knows nothing of London. Visitors come from the
Metropolis to the shores of Mount’s Bay; but although they are--in
instances--known to his from London town, that place is the merest
geographical expression in Penwith. We don’t read London papers
at Penzance (unless we are--for our sins--authors, when our friends
kindly post us those copies containing slashing reviews, obligingly
blue-pencilled); we read few papers of any sort, and those are printed
at Plymouth. Visitors do not get through much reading at Penzance. They
have breakfast, and disappear for the day, to return only at night,
tired and hungry, from strenuous excursions to all sorts of wild and
impossible places, with names that only a Celt can properly get his
tongue round. A stranger coming into Penzance upon a mid-day of its
season would opine from the evidence of his eyes that the town had
lost its favour, but nothing would be farther from the truth. Half the
visitors are at Land’s End or the Logan Rock; some at Saint Ives; many
at the Mount, or Newlyn, or Mousehole; a few have gone to Truro or the
Lizard.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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