From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's EndHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
General
From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's End
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel
But not only invalids hie them to the neighbourhood of these frowzy
firs, these yellow sands. Bournemouth, one is tempted to say, is the
watering-place _par excellence_ of the curate. There is a certain
respectable air of five-o’clock tea and a savour of muffins about
the place, that traditionally accompany the unbeneficed. Bournemouth
abominates the tripper whose pockets ring with plebeian silver, whose
trips are calculated in hours, and so with the recurrence of statutory
holidays, Bournemouth shivers at the sounds of vulgar revelry heard by
the sounding sea. Truth to tell, however, the jolly Bank-holiday crew
are never too prominent here: lordly expresses are the salient feature
of the railway service and hotels of an appalling magnificence affright
the shallow pursed. Otherwhere, sandy foreshores are filled, thronged,
with trippers, cheap and checked with checks of Tweed gone mad; with
photographic ninepenny-touchers, gay again in that the automatic
cloud has passed away from their horizon; with longshoremen, gruff of
voice and broad in the beam, redolent of spirits, who confide to your
unwilling ear the secret of the day being “fine for a sail, sir;” with
hateful brats intent on constructing masked pitfalls for the stout
and elderly of either gender; with children’s missionising preachers
with their excruciating harmoniums; raucous-voiced burnt-corkists,
tract-distributors and hurdy-gurds. Here, to the contrary, are few of
these pests. Certainly there be occasionally, as at prim and proper
Hastings, the children’s services, that give an air of cheap and
superficial piety to the scene; and liliputian pails and spades are
continually at work on the sands; but moneyed holiday-makers, either
leisured or (in two senses) pursy business men of the Saturday to
Monday variety are among the chief of Bournemouth’s clientèle. I met
Wellesley Welles the other day in, let me see where was it? Oh, yes,
Capel Court. He was going to flee for a space the gilded baseness of
the Stock Exchange for a three weeks’ trip to Homburg, and to that
end had accumulated a prodigious heap of red-covered encyclopædias of
travel, and spouted guide-bookese until the brain whirled again with
the sound and volume of it. Yet Bournemouth claimed him as its own for
many week-ends. Indeed, Saturday to Monday Bournemouth is peculiarly
knowing in contangos and options, and has a keen eye on the money
article in its morning paper.
XIX.
We stayed a day at Bournemouth, to catch anew the flavour of the place.
On the morning after our arrival we came down early to breakfast.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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