From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's EndHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
General
From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's End
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel
With Alphington were passed Exeter’s latest encroachments upon the
country in this direction, and the road presently became perfectly
rural. To the left was the rich level through which the Exe flows, now
restrained by cunningly constructed canals, weirs, banks, and sluices
from flooding the pastures, in some instances below its level, and
intersected by little dykes for their better irrigation.
[Illustration: EXETER, FROM THE DUNSFORD ROAD.]
The road shortly descended into a pretty valley, where were some
cottages beneath a peculiar isolated hill, crowned with a windy
coppice; below were pools of water that reflected hurrying clouds. At
the extremity of the valley the road was bordered by evergreen shrubs,
firs, and larches, and a dense undergrowth of brambles and wild-flowers
harmonised with the rich colour of a disused quarry, from whose red
ledges dripped drops of water with hollow sound.
[Illustration: ALPHINGTON.]
Then, past the huge building of the Devon County Lunatic Asylum, we
came into Exminster, standing on somewhat high ground. For sketching
purposes it does not group well: there are, though, some points of
interest within the church, among them a recessed portrait effigy of
Grace Tothill.
“GRACE, wife of William Tothill
of the Middle Temple, Died 1623, æt. 18.”
“If grace could lengthe of dayes thee give,
or vertue coulde haue made thee live
If goodnesse could thee heere have kept
or teares of frindes which for thee wept
Then hadst thou liv’d Amongst us heere
to whom thy vertues made thee deer
But thou a Sainte didst Heaven aspire
whiles heere on Earth wee thee admire
Then rest deere corps in mantle claye
Till Christ thee raise the latter daye.
Thy yeres were fewe thy glasse beinge runn
Where death did ende thy lyfe begunn.”
[Illustration: AN EXMINSTER MONUMENT.]
But the most interesting feature of Exminster church is the series of
saints on the ceiling at the east end of the south aisle. The aisle has
the “wagon” roof, so frequently met with in Devon, and it is divided
into square panels by old carved woodwork. The panels are filled with
plaster, on which are executed a series of saints and prophets, in low
relief, conceived and wrought in the most grotesque vein. The ceiling,
woodwork, and all, has been treated to a liberal coat of whitewash.
This figure, representing St. James the Less, takes the palm for
eccentricity of appearance, though the others are not far short of his
somewhat ungainly prominence. He is apparently in a great hurry, intent
on some hot-gospelling expedition, but he has a wicked eye that ill
beseems his errand, and a cudgel that seems out of keeping with the
book.
[Illustration: EXMINSTER SAINT.]
XXXII.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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