From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's EndHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
General
From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's End
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel
Watcombe we passed, with its towering red rocks rising sheer out of
the coombe; and, after toiling up hill and down dale, arrived at
Babbacombe, a fairy settlement of villas adjoining Torquay’s suburb of
Marychurch. Red sandstone rocks give place to lofty limestone cliffs,
clothed in luxuriant foliage, and skirted about their base with beaches
of rounded limestone pebbles of every size, smoothed and polished by
constant friction of the water.
We took tea at the Carey Arms, upon the lawn that gives on the water;
and admired, with the fleeting tourist’s regretful admiration, those
blood-red and milk-white cliffs, and that foreshore of the whitest,
hugest, and hardest marbles, and that sea of the most bewitching and
impossible light-blue--impossible, that is to say, from the point of
view of he or she who would transfer it to canvas--and bewildered
brush-wielders are here the commonest objects of the seashore. Not the
least of the things for which Torquay and Babbacombe are responsible
are the wasting of good paint and the spoiling of many acres of fair
primed canvas.
Beauty, you see, of any sort, is never harmless.
Leaving Babbacombe, we turned aside to visit Anstey’s Cove, that deep
pool, guarded by ghostly pinnacles of rocks, and overhung with silver
birch and brambles. Who was Anstey, and why was this cave named after
him? Who, again (forgive the digression), was Tooks, and why was a
court in Holborn made ridiculous with his name? We can only fold our
hands, and say in either case, “We don’t know.”
Anstey’s Cove is a favourite bathing-place, and has at its entrance
from the road a famous sign. The sign has been here for years, and is
become quite a time-honoured institution. The original “Thomas,” I
fear, is long since gathered to his fathers.
“Picnics supplied with hot water and tea
At a nice little house down by the sea;
Fresh Crabs and Lobsters every day,
Salmon Peel sometimes, Red Mullet and Grey;
The neatest of Pleasure Boats let out on hire;
Fishing Tackle as good as you can desire;
Bathing Machines for Ladies are kept,
With Towels and Gowns all quite correct.
Thomas is the man who provides everything:
And also teaches Young People to Swim.”
Excellent and most moral Thomas! Mindful both of provisions and the
proprieties, your truly British characteristics shall excuse your
errors of rhyme and rhythm; and though your lines don’t scan, I trust
your actions _là bas_ have attained a ready scansion _là haut_.
And now Torquay is near, happily situated on a down grade, for which
praise be. But let us be duly reverent, for Torbay, shining yonder in
the afternoon sun, is the gate by which entered, “for our goods,” as
Fraulein Kilmansegg innocently observed, the Hanoverian dynasty, to
save a nation which could not save itself.
XXXIX.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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