From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's EndHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
General
From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's End
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel
To leave these features and come to consideration of scenic charms,
there can be no higher praise than to say that at night Torquay
picturesqueness reaches the acme of theatric scene-painting. To return,
when the moon is shining, to Torquay from Paignton, is to experience
a thrill of decorative pleasure that few other places can confer. A
great bar of silver moonlight, all alive with ripples, mingles with
terrestrial illuminations of villas and climbing hillside roads,
garish yellow by comparison. Below, in the harbour, red and green and
yellow lights of smacks and vessels of many builds dance in streaky
minuets upon lazy tides, while on the horizon the mast-head lanterns
of Brixham boats rise and fall giddily from crest to trough of Channel
waves.
Torquay has many climates, from the warm and dense atmosphere of
Fleet Street and Union Street to the mellow lapping of Torbay air by
the rise of Park Hill, or the robustious breezes of Warberry Hill,
farther inland. And thus Torquay pleases every variety of the querulous
invalid: these feeble folk lie here in strata, elevated or depressed,
as best befits their individual complaints.
Since Dutch William landed at Brixham, and so marched through Torquay
to Newton Abbot with his heavy crew of Hollanders, the place has had no
history save only the smooth and simple annals of what auctioneers and
land-agents call a “rising watering-place.” And Torquay has been rising
any time these hundred years, until it has at length been blessed
with the left-handed blessings of a Mayor and Corporation. These be
weighty matters, and Torquay celebrated its Charter Day last year with
all the becoming pomp of so great and glorious an occasion. Minor
happenings there have been that remain tinged with the bitter irony of
circumstance, as when Napoleon, a captive on board the _Bellerophon_
(the “Billy Ruffian” of an untutored crew reckless of the classics)
was brought into Torbay, within sight of the diminutive Torquay of
that time. The conquered conqueror was reduced to the status of a
Richardson’s show, to be peeped at by that “nation of shopkeepers”
which he had so gratuitously despised.[3] That nation, or rather,
this southern coast portion of it, had been not a little uneasy at
Napoleon’s preparations for invasion, and had been strenuously devising
defences, with quaking hearts; while the populace sang, to keep its
pecker up, such reassuring songs about the improbable, as that of which
the following stanza is a specimen:--
“When husbands with their wives agree,
And maids won’t wed from modesty,
_Then_ little Bony he’ll pounce down,
And march his men on London town.”
After which followed the rousing chorus--
“Rollickum rorum, tol-lol lorum,
Rollickum rorum, tol-lol lay.”
And these matters are Torquay’s sole concern with political history.
Happy town, say I.
XL.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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