From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's EndHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
General
From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's End
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel
Prince himself, author of “Worthies of Devon,” and vicar of Berry
Pomeroy, lies within the church, where Seymours and superseded Pomeroys
lie close together--quietly enough. The Protector’s son, Lord Edward
Seymour, lies here in effigy. He died (you learn) in 1593. His son,
too, rests beside, and amid them sleeps this child, done in stone,
humorously, as it seems to us, looking upon those radiant Dutch-like
features.
[Illustration: FROM A MONUMENT, BERRY.]
XLI.
From woody dells and time-greyed walls to the highroad and modern
Bridgetown, the suburb of Totnes, seemed a sorry change, though
without the loveliness of Berry it had been fair enough. Bridgetown
lies on one side of a narrow valley, Totnes on the other, and between
them runs the Dart, crossed by a very serviceable, very modern, very
uninteresting bridge, that stands sponsor to the suburb.
Totnes, say the historians, is the oldest, or one of the oldest,
borough towns in England, founded, we are asked to believe, by
Brutus the Trojan. We will not dispute the point: as well he as any
one else. I will not (being transparently candid) deny that this
particular Brutus seems to me, after this length of time, to be a very
uninteresting person--a prosy fellow--one to be avoided.
But we will not, an’t please you, so readily drop the subject of Totnes
town: that would not do, for not many such picturesque places remain in
the south of England. Fore Street, which seems in these Devon towns to
stand for High Street--although in some places in the county they are
happy in the possession of both--Fore Street, Totnes, is a fine example
of the unstudied, fortuitous, picturesque, from the projecting houses
that overhang the pavements at one end, to the Eastgate that spans the
street at the other, amid all the bustle and business of a town that,
it would seem, is little affected by depression of the agricultural
industries, upon which it lives.
There is a fine church at Totnes, with a stone pulpit, carved and gilt
and painted to wonderment, and the tower of that church is among the
best in Devon, an architectural dream, in ruddy sandstone, pinnacled,
and adorned with tabernacles containing figures of kings and saints,
benefactors, bishops, and pious founders. For aught I know (so lofty
is their eyrie) Judhael de Totnais is of the company. This Judhael
was one of the Conqueror’s host of filibusters, who, receiving his due
share of plunder in the form of fat manors, settled at the chiefest
of them, built himself a castle on a likely site, and, like some old
regiments under modern War-Office administration, took a territorial
title, “De Totnais.”
[Illustration: EASTGATE, TOTNES.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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