But Blackpool was a landing-place to be attempted only in fine weather. Dartmouth harbour was the natural entrance. To guard it there were built, in ancient times, the twin-towers of Dartmouth and Kingswear Castles, facing one another, across the water, and between them was stretched an iron chain, drawn taut by windlasses in time of peril, which effectually prevented the entrance of hostile ships. Kingswear Castle is comparatively insignificant, but Dartmouth Castle, viewed from the Kingswear side, forms, with the adjoining church of Saint Petrox, a striking group, backed by the lofty tree-clad hills of Gallants’ Bower. A modern fort, built into the rock beside the sea, adds a modern touch. Saint Petrox contains brasses to Roopes in plenty, one of the inscriptions, curiously beautiful, for all its spelling:-- “JOHN ROOPE, OF DARTMOUTH, MARCHANT, 1609. “’Twas not a winded nor a withered face Nor long gray hares nor dimnes in the eyes Nor feble limbs nor uncouth trembling pace Presagd his death that here intombed lies His time was come, his maker was not bounde To let him live till all their markes were founde, His time was come, that time he did imbrace With sence & feelinge with a joyfull harte As his best passage to a better place, Where all his cares are ended & his smarte This Roope was blest, that trusted in God alone He lives twoe lives where others live but one.” [Illustration: DARTMOUTH CASTLE.] By this time my sketch-book was filled, and we went to a bookseller’s to buy another, finally purchasing a ship’s log-book for the purpose. It was ruled with faint blue lines, unfortunately (what stationers term “feint only”), but the paper of it took pencil beautifully. I think we left the bookseller’s assistant with but a poor estimate of our artistic powers, for he seemed consumed with astonishment at the choice, and grieved when I flouted the gorgeous sketch-books, oblong in shape, and lettered in big gold lettering on their covers, that he would have us buy. “All artists,” said he, “use these;” but we took leave to doubt the statement, and left them for the use of the bread-and-butter miss.