From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
From this camp we looked down on a great swampy plain which absorbs the
waters of these three south-eastern streams. In many places geysers
were shooting vast jets of steam into the air, and the course of the
rivers was defined by dense strips of luxuriant jungle.
The surrounding country must be rising very rapidly, and the geysers are
an indication of considerable volcanic activity. By the last rise the
lake has lost a hundred and twenty square miles; and the loss occasioned
by the last rise but one must have amounted to several hundreds of
square miles.
The map of this lake-shore emphasizes the extraordinary similarity of
form in all the great lakes of Central Africa, with the one exception of
the Victoria Nyanza. A glance at the map will show that the angular
inclination and general form of Lake Nyassa, Lake Tanganyika, Lake
Albert Edward, and Lake Albert have a wonderful resemblance to one
another.
The next day we again descended on to the last lake level, and crossed
the Ntungwe river. This river we crossed by means of an ingenious
native bridge, which would suggest that the country at some time not
very remote was much more densely populated. After passing through one
or two insignificant villages, we camped by a small lagoon. The
following morning we crossed the third stream which feeds these swamps,
but I could not ascertain its name; and we were compelled to make a
detour to the east to avoid some very dense strips of jungle, in which
we found some carefully-hidden villages, strongly fortified by
stockades. The natives had carefully closed the entrance, but appeared
to be quite friendly; and here, with great regret, we said farewell to
our Wanyabinga brother.
Our day’s march brought us once more to the lake-shore, which was still
swampy; and as reed was growing at a distance of one mile from the
shore, it was evident that the lake was still very shallow, and in all
probability the next few years will see another very considerable change
in its area.
A few miles further on there is a small bay, where are two insignificant
villages close to the lake. Here the natives cultivate dwarf
banana-plants, and eke out a precarious existence by trapping
hippopotami. They build a stout scaffold of logs and fasten thereto a
booby-trap, consisting of a heavily-weighted spear-head.
These villages were on the frontier of Visegwe’s country, who is one of
Kaihura’s chiefs. Here my fever assumed a serious form; my temperature
at one time rose to 108.4, but the motherly attentions of Sharp pulled
me through; and when I was sufficiently recovered to be moved, he
procured a gigantic dug-out canoe, in which I was paddled to Katwe, the
frontier post of the Uganda Protectorate.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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