From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
The high-road led past the English mission, where extensive building
operations in brick were going on, down a steep hill and across a
primitive and dangerous bridge, built by the 11th Company of Soudanese,
under the late Colonel Sitwell, to keep them quiet during the mutiny,
and up a steep hill to the fort, where we were most hospitably received
by Mr. S. S. Bagge, one of the founders of the Uganda Protectorate, who
has spent nearly nine years in the country, having acquired the
pioneering mania in that hot-bed of pioneers, the Western States of
America. Captain J. A. Meldon was in charge of the troops. English
newspapers and books were most welcome, after being separated from them
for many months. Our own literature consisted of Whitaker, Shakespeare,
and Keats.
Two days after our arrival at Fort Gerry, our boys began to get
troublesome, as they had nothing to do, and pombe (native beer) was
plentiful; and one evening they raided the milk belonging to the
Soudanese officer, and beat his boys, for which the culprits were duly
admonished. Next day they all declared a desire to go home again to
Ujiji. We were anxious to take them on to Wadelai, there being no hopes
of getting local porters to go anywhere except to Kampala; and at
length, after much parleying, arranged that thirty of them should go to
Wadelai with me, and the rest to Kampala with Sharp, to lay in supplies
for the Nile journey, and then the whole lot could return by the
Victoria Nyanza to Mwanza in German territory, and thence home in
safety, _via_ Tabora.
Meantime stories of enormous tuskers were dinned into our ears, and
Captain Meldon having very kindly offered to accompany us, we determined
to go and have a fortnight’s elephant-hunting, as a little relaxation
after our arduous march. On inquiry as to licences, we were horrified
to find a £25 licence necessary, which entitled the payer to kill two
elephant only. Permission might be obtained from the Commissioner of a
district to kill others at £12 each--truly a preposterous regulation, in
view of our subsequent experiences; however, having come so far, more or
less with the objective of elephant-shooting, we paid up like men, and
started off on the main road to Kampala.
The country, as usual in Toro, consisted of undulating hills intersected
by papyrus swamps, with a few banana plantations, very sparsely
populated, and showing no signs of game except some old elephant spoor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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