From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
I reached camp just at dusk, and found that Changera, one of the Mboga
chiefs, had come in to see me. His country lies between Tavara’s and
Kavalli’s, and stretches from the top of the Congo Semliki watershed to
the Semliju. The following morning I went down to see how they were
cutting out the tusks, and found that hordes of Balegga had swarmed down
from the hills for the meat. A weird sight it was: stark naked savages
with long greased hair (in some cases hanging down on their shoulders)
were perched on every available inch of the carcase, hacking away with
knives and spears, yelling, snarling, whooping, wrestling, cursing, and
munching, covered with blood and entrails; the new arrivals tearing off
lumps of meat and swallowing them raw, the earlier birds defending their
worms in the form of great lumps of fat paunch and other delicacies;
while others were crawling in and out of the intestines lake so many
prairie marmots. Old men, young men, prehistoric hags, babies, one and
all gorging or gorged; pools of blood, strips of hide, vast bones,
blocks of meat, individuals who had not dined wisely but too well, lay
around in bewildering profusion; and in two short hours all was
finished. Nothing remained but the gaunt ribs like the skeleton of a
shipwreck, and a few disconsolate-looking vultures perched thereon.
The Balegga live in the hills to the north of Mboga proper, though many
of them are now under Changera, having fled south from the Belgians.
They are good specimens of the real Central African savage, rather
short, but well-set-up, innocent of clothing as a babe unborn, and
blessed with an inordinate and insatiable craving for meat, which at
that time was, if possible, intensified by the failure of their crops,
owing to the drought. They wear their hair in long thin plaits,
liberally smeared with grease, which gives them a very wild appearance,
especially when, as I noticed in some cases, it hangs down over their
face. In the intervals of gorging and hacking, they amused themselves
by smearing the caked blood over their hair and bodies--a proceeding
that gave general satisfaction. I gathered from them that many had
lately come south to Mboga (which is at present administered from Fort
Gerry) to avoid the persecution of the Belgians, who had killed, as they
said, great numbers both of them and their neighbouring tribes to the
north. They indignantly denied my soft impeachment of cannibalism, but
from extraneous sources I gathered that any lightly grilled portion of
my anatomy that might happen to wander round their way would be, so to
speak, a "gone coon."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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