From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
My Wanyabuga friends provided me with two guides, who, after wasting two
hours in visiting obscure villages, all of which were deserted, and
answering my protests at our zigzag route by ambiguous allusions to
marshes, eventually landed me within four hundred yards of where I had
started, and suggested that I should camp. Having with difficulty
persuaded them that I was annoyed, which they evidently considered
unreasonable on my part, they smilingly explained that it was far from
their homes, and they had hoped to find me other guides. However, vague
allusions to the presence of a "kiboko"[#] convinced them of the
inexpediency, not to say positive danger, of further nonsense, and they
gaily proceeded on their way, chortling hugely at the success of what
they thought a very merry prank. They led me to a deserted village
opposite Kasenyi, a small island about a mile from the mainland, and the
present headquarters of Katonzi. The Wanyabuga-Balegga market was in
full swing, but vanished like mist at my sudden appearance, and it was
only by going down to the beach stripped to the waist, and a happy
allusion to brothership with "Kapelli," that I induced them to bring
their canoes to the shore again. "Kapelli" is the native name of that
gallant officer Colonel Lugard, and to have left a name in Africa that
opens all doors and all hearts is the finest monument to his exploits
that a man can have. They flocked in to see me under Tunja, Katonzi’s
eldest son, who brought several loads of food, and informed me that
Katonzi had left two days before for Toro. They asked all kinds of
questions about "Kapelli" and Mr. Grant, who was with Lugard in his
expedition to release the Soudanese, and wanted to know why he had never
come back, and had the English deserted their country after promising to
protect them? I answered all their questions to the best of my ability,
and when I showed them Lugard’s book and the photograph of Grant, which,
to my surprise, they immediately recognized, their delight knew no
bounds.
[#] _Kiboko_: whip made of hippo hide.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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