From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
time (and that under very trying conditions, owing to the numbers of
destitute aliens in the country--to wit, the Soudanese) is now
practically a howling wilderness; the scattered inhabitants, terrified
even of one another, and living almost without cultivation in the
marshes, thickets, and reeds, madly flee even from their own shadows.
Chaos--hopeless, abysmal chaos--from Mweru to the Nile; in the south,
tales of cruelty of undoubted veracity, but which I could not repeat
without actual investigation on the spot; on Tanganyika, absolute
impotence, revolted Askaris ranging at their own sweet will, while the
white men are throwing their ivory and cartridges into the lake, and
cutting down their bananas for fear the rebels should take them; on
Kivu, a hideous wave of cannibalism raging unchecked through the land,
while in the north the very white men who should be keeping peace where
chaos now reigns supreme, are spending thousands in making of peace a
chaos of their own. I have no hesitation in condemning the whole State
as a vampire growth, intended to suck the country dry, and to provide a
happy hunting-ground for a pack of unprincipled outcasts and untutored
scoundrels. The few sound men in the country are powerless to stem the
tide of oppression.
The departure of my mubaka provided by King Kasagama had taken a great
load off my mind; he was too heavy a swell for me to keep pace with,
dressed in white breeks, yellow putties, red fez, and three fancy
cloths, to say nothing of a red and yellow belt; and his terrible
anxiety lest he should miss a chance of putting up a large white
umbrella with a green lining was so infectious that finally I found
myself watching the clouds with one eye and the mubaka with the other,
knowing that at the first ray of sunshine he would emerge from his hut
and perform for my edification. In the cloudy intervals he devoured
such masses of solid food that even with my experience of native
capacity I became quite alarmed, and between the struttings and
bursting-point tests, he had very little time to devote to my affairs,
so that I was very glad to see the last of him.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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