From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
An hour’s walk into the valley of death brought us to a cluster of
villages with a large population, which was in a state of utter
destitution. The people, who were very nervous at first, eventually
gathered round in numbers with the same tale of rapine and murder, and
the chief gave me a guide to take me to the foot of the hills. Another
hour brought us to Nsabe, which, though generally depicted on maps in
large letters, consists of about five dirty little muck-heaps, only
recognizable as human habitations by the filthy smell that emanated from
them. All the inhabitants fled, leaving their spears, bows, and beer in
their hurry, and no amount of shouting and yelling would induce them to
return. Our guide promptly made a bundle of the spears and other
movables, with a view to appropriation, which when complete I placed
against a tree, accompanying the movement by a vigorous application of
my boot to the toughest portion of his anatomy. Incorrigible, bullying,
thieving curs, one is often tempted to think that the Boer method of
treating natives is, after all, the only one they deserve. Their Mark
Tapleyism is their sole redeeming feature, and that is attributable to
the incapacity of their intellect to hold anything but the impression of
the moment. Although of the same tribe and close neighbours, I expect
he would have thoroughly enjoyed seeing me burn and loot the place; it
is the same everywhere--a guide amongst his own people is a worse thief
even than a Manyema porter. He then took us by a devious route to the
shore of the lake, and seemed greatly astonished to find that the
village he had mentioned did not exist; nor had it left any trace
behind. I could see by the way he was behaving that he intended to
bolt, and knowing that without a native of the country there was very
little chance of inducing the people, in their frightened state, to
remain in their villages, I kept a close eye on him. As I expected, when
I sat down on the shore to wait for the boys to close up, he began
edging off towards the jungle; but when he looked round to see if it was
all clear, he found himself covered by my .303. I had him brought back,
and explained to him that his chief had sent him to show the way to the
foot of the hills, that he had led me into the wilderness and could now
lead me out, the two alternatives being villages, another guide, and a
present, or a race with a .303 bullet. He chose the former, and seeing
that fooling was a glut in the market, promptly took us to a village of
the Wakoba called Kahoma, and in Kahuma’s country. Here all the people
fled, but he followed, and persuaded them to bring food to trade. They,
too, had been raided, and had lost two women and two children captured.
They could not tell me how many white men or Askaris there were, as they
had not waited to see. The majority of them are fine, well-made men,
and intensely black. One in particular took my fancy. He was a
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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