From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
The following morning, after narrowly escaping shooting the rapids,
owing to a mistake in Bt.-Major Vandeleur’s map, which transposes the
river Unyama and the stream which flows in farther north, I reached
Afuddu, a post built in the bottom of a crater several miles from
anywhere, and surrounded by dense bush. A more concise summing up of
Uganda methods than that afforded by the placing of Afuddu would be
difficult to conceive. Subsequent inquiries elicited the monstrous fact
that the site had been chosen because of a magnificent shady tree which
serves as an open-air dining-room: in fine, two white men and a hundred
odd Soudanese are condemned to live in a mosquito-bush situated in a
hollow surrounded by hills, two hours from the river and off the main
road to Fort Berkeley, for the shade afforded by a tree during
meal-times. Naturally the site is now to be changed, which means the
loss of a year’s work. I was much distressed to find Lieut. Langton of
the 21st Lancers, the O.C., in bed with black-water fever. Fortunately
two days later Dr. Walker arrived from Lamogi, and when I left all
danger was past. The Commandant of new Dufilé sent over wine and other
luxuries for the invalid, and sent me a most pressing invitation to go
and shoot with him, which, owing to my anxiety to arrive at Fort
Berkeley, and obtain the latest news, I was unable to accept.
After three days’ wallowing in the unheard-of luxury of glass, china,
silver, milk and butter galore, for which Afuddu is justly famous, I set
off with thirty Madi porters provided by a neighbouring chief, and
crossing the line of hills north of the Unyama, camped on the Asua,
which in the rains is a very formidable river. On the road I saw my
first herd of giraffe, but owing to the necessity of avoiding delay, the
country being uninhabited, and consequently foodless, I had to rest
content with a long look through my binoculars. I was much impressed
with their immense height and extraordinary action. The road to Fort
Berkeley crosses the plateau several miles east of the Nile, and passes
through a stony, inhospitable country, the haunt of numerous rhinoceros,
antelope, and elephant. Scores of rocky streams flow west to the Nile.
In the neighbourhood of the large hills, four days from Afuddu, their
banks are clothed with dense masses of bamboo. The third day out we
passed through the deserted fields and villages of a chief, Krefi, who,
owing to some difference as to the porterage of food with the
authorities at Fort Berkeley, has moved with all his people from the
road towards the interior. This has been a sad blow to the transport of
the region, as formerly a relay of porters and food were to be obtained,
whereas now the porters from Afuddu have to do the whole five days to
Alimadi’s villages, and that without being able to obtain food on the
road, an innovation which they naturally resent. At Alimadi’s I found a
detachment of Soudanese from Fort Berkeley buying food. Alimadi himself
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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