From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
The main population, which is very dense, lives in the bush at a
distance of sometimes several miles from the river, and water is one of
the most expensive supplies, though, except in seasons of severe
drought, such as when I passed through, there are evidently numerous
pools scattered all over the bush. Owing to the drought there was no
grain obtainable, and the natives were eating the seeds of a water-plant
resembling a crown-artichoke (the nenuphar) and the kernels of the
before-mentioned plums. A very affable and intelligent gentleman, who
had accompanied me for some miles, offered his services as guide, which
I gladly accepted, and after marching for an hour I arrived at another
extensive village. Here, as elsewhere, all the huts were isolated and
surrounded by a fence of thorns to ward off the lions, which were very
numerous. On the path we met hundreds and hundreds of natives, many of
enormous stature, 6 ft. 4 to 6 ft. 6, who were going to cut up the
elephant, and they were all very friendly. At the village I waited for
my boys to close up, but after some time one was still missing, and as
boys whom I sent back told me that they could not find him, I packed my
people and belongings into one of the thorn-fences, and went back with
one soldier and some Dinkas whom I persuaded to accompany me.
About a mile away I met my headman and my guide of the morning returning
with the delinquent, who was none other than the criminal lunatic. It
appears that he had decided to return home, and, as a preliminary, had
distributed my blankets, mosquito-curtain, and clothes amongst the
natives. By an extraordinary stroke of luck I recovered them intact,
with the trivial exception of one of my two shirts; it was due to my
guide, and he and the two men who brought them in were handsomely
rewarded; so was the runaway. The flies by day, the mosquitoes by
night, rendered life well-nigh impossible, and with visions of
impassable swamps, waterless deserts, and famine in front, I heartily
wished myself quit of Africa and all its abominations, as I have so
often done before, and shall no doubt so often do again. In the
afternoon, at the urgent request of many hungry Dinkas, I sallied forth
and slew a good bull elephant. I had chased him for several miles,
pouring in lead whenever I could see him, till at last he stood. This
gave me my chance, and he dropped to a shot in the head. But as I was
going up to inspect him, he suddenly rose and sloped away. I fired four
shots from the 10-bore at him as he passed. At the fourth he stopped,
turned his head towards me, and quite deliberately began to advance,
examining carefully with his trunk every palm-bush. There was no
unseemly haste about his action. He meant investigating the matter. My
position was most uncomfortable, as, if I fired, I should give him my
whereabouts, and certainly could not drop him; while, if I moved from
the cover of the diminutive palm-tree behind which I was standing, he
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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