From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
Enormous numbers of Dinkas came to see me beaten by this obstruction;
and after two hours’ exhausting conversation in signs, during which I
displayed all my remaining trade goods, I had still failed to induce a
guide to show me the way across. In native fashion they all wanted to
see what I would do. At last, utterly disgusted, I started to wade,
intending to swim if we could not manage otherwise, as I dare not waste
the two or three days that would be necessary to march round. When they
saw that I was quite determined, several came with me and showed me the
shallowest path across. They were hugely delighted when I presented them
with a Jubilee medal and some beads, but said that they dare not go any
further, as the next village was not their village, signifying that if
they went they would be speared. A short march soon brought us to the
village in question. The natives were rather nervous at first, but soon
brought us plenty of rotten fish and a little milk. Here my surviving
Ruanda man succumbed to the attacks of the mosquitoes, which defied
description; he had been ailing for some time, and being too desperate
to keep them off, he was literally sucked dry. It was absolutely
necessary to turn in half an hour before sunset and to make all the
preparations possible for the night. I piled all my belongings round the
edge of my net, and kept a green wood fire burning at each end: then I
lay inside, smoked native tobacco (of remarkable pungency), and prayed
for morning. As soon as the sun went down they started operations. It
was like having a tame whirlwind in one’s tent. They could not possibly
have been worse: had there been thousands more it would not have
mattered, as not a single one more could have found room on any exposed
part of one’s anatomy. Every night two or three hundred contrived to
enter my net; I have no idea how. The most pernicious and poisonous
kind was a very small black mosquito, that might possibly have
penetrated the mesh. I used to turn out in the morning feeling
perfectly dazed from the amount of poison that had been injected during
the night. The natives of the country obviate the nuisance by lining
their huts with a deep layer of burnt cow-dung, in which they lie. They
also smear a paste made of this ash and cow’s urine all over their
bodies. The women carefully collect all the dung and spread it out to
dry. In the evening, when the cattle are brought in to be milked, they
burn it. The smoke serves to keep the flies from the beasts during the
milking. Then all the ash is collected and placed in the huts.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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