From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
The night passed peacefully, though I thought it advisable to put on a
double sentry, and on the morrow, weary of swamps, I struck east towards
the great burnt plain, and then marched due north, trusting to luck for
water. I found numerous holes where the water had not quite dried up,
and met many isolated groups of desponding natives spearing a loathsome
four-legged reptile or fish, some of which, for lack of more delicate
fare, I had to eat; and after marching for about fifteen miles, I again
came on extensive swamps which stretched far to the east, and seemed
likely to give me much trouble, if not to effectually prevent me going
further. Being totally ignorant of the country, and without means of
asking the simplest question of the natives, I had been fearing all
along that I should arrive at some impassable obstacle. I was very
anxious on this point, as it would have been impossible to return.
Arriving unexpectedly on the edge of the first pool, I found it one mass
of small duck, with a spur-winged goose standing up in the middle. I
fired at him with my .303, and he dropped, the bullet striking him with
most unusual noise. My boy, wading in, returned not only with the
goose, but also two duck. The bullet had struck the goose’s back,
removing his intestines and half his breast, then cut off the head and
broken the wing of No. 1 duck, and neatly cleaned No. 2. It was a
Dum-dum, and must have exploded like a shell. I have often noticed that
the bullets with the most penetration, such as the solid, nickel-coated,
and the Dum-dum, shatter small animals and birds more effectually than
the more expansive bullets, such as the Jeffrey and the lead-nose. This
stroke of luck provided a very welcome change to my mournful diet of
doubtful fish, occasional milk flavoured with cow’s urine, which is used
for washing the dairy utensils, and a strange cheese of my own
manufacture.
We camped on the top of a layer of burnt vegetation overlying a morass,
and my tent nearly disappeared in the night, while I was seized with
furious bouts of vomiting, caused by the quantity of salt in the water.
To make matters more cheerful, I discovered that my last two tins of
tobacco were mouldy, and I only wished that I could enjoy it as much as
the mosquitoes appeared to do, who settled in clouds on the rim of my
pipe waiting their turn for a space on my epidermis. Several either
climbed inside or bit me through a pair of ammunition boots. I had a
severe cold and a stiff arm; my cook boy had dysentery; one of the Congo
soldiers had a dreadful foot, which rendered walking a terrible torture;
and the two gentlemen with cracked skulls were semi-delirious, so that,
on the whole, we were a jovial party, our joviality being materially
increased by the impossibility of making a fire, owing to lack of fuel.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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