From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
A few miles further on, one of my Congolese soldiers, who, against all
orders, lagged behind a few minutes, mysteriously disappeared, and an
exhaustive search failed to find any trace either of him or of natives.
The country was very open, and he was carrying a rifle, so they must
have spirited him away very cleverly. From here to the mouth of the
Zaraf there is only one village, so that for food I was entirely
dependent on my rifle. At first there was no difficulty, as the river
swarmed with hippo, and there were numbers of hartebeeste, Mrs. Gray’s
waterbuck, leucotis, reedbuck, waterbuck, and roan. A magnificent bull
of the latter species I at first took to be a sable, owing to the
extraordinary length of his horns, and with the cussedness of his kind
he stood and watched us all pass at a distance of thirty yards. But for
several days afterwards I had the greatest difficulty in obtaining meat,
subsisting entirely on pelicans, one day being even reduced to marabout
soup, and it was not till within thirty miles of the mouth that I again
came into a game country, where the bush comes down to the river. Here
I saw numerous giraffe, and one day marched for hours through small
herds of cow elephant. It was curious that I saw nothing but bulls on
the Nile swamps, while on the Zaraf there were huge numbers of breeding
cows, and I only saw the spoor of a very few bulls, and those were
mostly small. For days the muddy tide rolls slowly on between banks of
sun-baked mud, unrelieved by swamps or vegetation. The flocks of birds
no more break the depressing monotony, naught but great, loathly
crocodiles, that slip without a sound into the turgid flow, bald-pated
marabouts, and screaming kites. No sign of hope; a vast reserve for
God’s foulest creatures, and a fitting one. Ye gods, what a land! The
old boyhood’s desire to shriek and break something that invariably
recurred on Sunday morning broke out afresh, and I felt that I was near
that indefinable boundary beyond which is madness.
About thirty miles south of the Abiad an extensive Kohr, which was dry
when I passed, flows into the Zaraf. Close by there is a small ridge a
few feet above the level of the surrounding country; here I camped and
saw a great variety of game. Four giraffe came and peered over a bush
at me while I was having my bath, and thoroughly enjoyed the novel
spectacle. They showed no inclination to move away, and I had a
splendid chance of having a good look at them. The situation was
quaint. It struck me as an admirable study for René Bull or Mr.
Shepherd.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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