From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
A few hours’ steaming took us past the Sobat junction, where there is
now but a small post of Soudanese under a native officer, and to the
world-famed Fashoda. Here I handed over the first trans-continental
post-bag, which I had brought through with me, to Captain Hayes-Sadler,
who stamped the post-cards with the gorgeous red seal of Fashoda. Here,
too, I received the first letter that had reached me for eighteen
months, in which I learned that my oldest friend had fallen at Glencoe,
at the very beginning of the war--to wit, Lieut. John Taylor, of the
King’s Royal Rifles. Curiously enough, the last letter that I had
received on leaving civilization had been from him. Verily Africa is an
accursed land. Many of the good friends whom I had met during our
journey have already gone, and again and again I hear of fresh gaps in
the chain.
I went and looked at the little French fort built of bricks that were
taken from the ruined buildings of Fashoda. It is a very insignificant
structure, and I should have been very sorry to be inside with a
seven-pounder playing on the fort. There are still a few pawpaw trees
planted by Marchand, the shrivelled fruit of which we took on board, and
utilized as vegetable marrows. The Rek or King of the Shilluks lives
near Fashoda; he is the descendant of a hundred kings, or something of
that kind. I am not sure that his pedigree does not go back to the time
of the Pharaohs. I had the pleasure of seeing his mop-headed Majesty
ride past, attended by numerous courtiers. The Shilluk villages are
about a mile away from the channel of the Nile, to avoid being flooded
during the rains. The Dervishes kidnapped many thousands of the flower
of their youth for military service. The Rek is a delightful old
gentleman, and presented Captain Hayes-Sadler with an order not
unconnected with crocodiles. The Shilluks are a most moral people, and
live contentedly under an ample code of laws admirably suited to their
social condition and mode of life. Any attempt to interfere with the
belief and customs of such a people seems unwise. In view of the
appalling misery and want at home, it is difficult to justify the large
sums of money spent in upsetting the, in many cases, admirable existing
state of society in Africa. Centuries have evolved a state of society
most suitable to the surroundings and conditions of life. Why try to
upset it? On the voyage down to Fashoda I saw many Shilluk fishermen
wading in the shallow water, and endeavouring to spear fish. The spear
used is of great length, and the pointed end is tied back to form a bow,
by which means the point is induced to run along the top of, instead of
sticking into, the mud. It seemed an unprofitable business, but, like
most natives, they appear quite hopeful. They train their hair into
gigantic mops, and dye it red with cow-dung. Many of the men have
splendid features, and are extremely handsome. They hunt the hippo with
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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