From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
When I engaged the Watonga on Lake Nyassa, I informed them of all the
salient features that they would see on the road, such as lakes,
mountains that spat fire, mountains so high that the water became as
stones, etc. As we passed each of these features I reminded them of what
I had said, showing them that I had not lied, as they had imagined
before starting. When the journey was nearly finished, I pointed out
that everything had appeared as I had said, and asked them what they
thought of it. Then spake the headman: "Lord, you are a wonderful lord.
You told us of the four lakes, and how many days’ journey it would take
to pass them; you told us of the smoking mountains and the great
mountains of the white water; of the elephants and the meat with necks
like trees (giraffe); yet you have not been there before, as we well
know. And as you would not have us, your servants, think you a liar,
_you put them there_."
Again, I had told them of the size of the white man’s houses; and when
we arrived at Khartoum I showed them the palace as an example. They
smiled and said: "Yes, it is very wonderful; but that is no house, _it
has been dug out of a hill_."
When travelling up the Zambesi, I gave Sharp’s Somali boy a Van Houten’s
cocoa-tin to open, telling him to make cocoa. He disappeared for a
time, and returned with a tin-opener with which he proceeded to tear off
the bottom of the tin. Having successfully accomplished this, he thrust
a spoon in and pushed the lid off, with the result that all the cocoa
fell out on to the ground. Then he looked at me with an expression of
supreme contempt, as though to say: "I always thought the white men
fools, but not quite such fools as to make a thing like that." He must
have opened hundreds of tins before, both hermetically sealed ones and
ordinary ones. Yet to this day he thinks me an idiot.
The small boy who was responsible for arranging my tent had been
carefully instructed always to place my belongings in a certain order.
Occasionally, through his having put my bed on an uneven piece of
ground, I would tell him to change it to the other side, which meant
reversing my boxes and table to bring them into the correct relative
position. In doing this he was never satisfied till he had also
reversed the square mat, and when I laughed at him for doing so he left
the mat and put the boxes wrong, nor could he put them right till he had
reversed the mat. This was most curious, and I could never grasp to my
satisfaction what his train of reasoning was.
One day, when hauling a canoe up a very shallow tributary of the Nile,
one of my boys, finding that he could not pull to advantage from the bed
of the river, climbed inside and made superhuman efforts to drag it
along. He quite failed to see the cause of my laughter, sulked, and
refused to pull any more.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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