From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
Unfortunately both Sharp and I were too ill to see much of Ujiji and its
interesting people. Many charming old Arabs, clad in gorgeous array,
came and paid their respects, and sent us many presents, such as fruit,
eggs, and vegetables. It was sad to see these venerable old gentlemen
in their then condition, and to think of how, in the good old days gone
by, they had held undisputed sway over many, many thousand square miles.
The day after our arrival we lunched with Hauptmann Bethe and his staff.
We were plied with the most bewildering succession of drinks; starting
with port, then through successive courses of champagne, brandy, beer,
Vermouth, and claret, we slowly wended our way, with the temperature
110° in the shade. This diet, the Germans informed us, was absolutely
essential to avoid fever. They protested that no teetotaller who had
arrived in Ujiji had ever left Ujiji for any other place in this world;
and certainly the Germans who were there were living examples of the
efficacy of their treatment.
The courtesy, assistance, and confidence which we received in the German
sphere shone bright in contrast with much of the treatment which we
received under our own flag; and our warmest thanks are due to those
whole-hearted Germans who are upholding the honour of the Fatherland on
the far distant shore of Tanganyika.
My fever, which had now lasted for more than three weeks, took a decided
turn for the worse, and I began to lose the proper control of my hands.
Sharp, on the other hand, was slightly better.
We witnessed several dances. It was quite easy to start one, by
providing the funds necessary to obtain a considerable quantity of
native beer, when the natives would arrive in hundreds in the
market-place and perform the wildest and most grotesque dances
imaginable. Hauptmann Bethe arranged a most elaborate one for our
edification.
At last, on April 12th, we had organized our caravan of one hundred and
thirty men, and made a start up the lake. We had been compelled to
leave some loads behind, and it was not till four in the afternoon that
the last man left the courtyard. We had had no difficulty in recruiting
as many men as we wanted, as the Germans afforded us every facility.
We only marched out sufficiently far to get our caravan quite clear of
Ujiji; and the Germans kindly sent out a few soldiers to avoid any
trouble with the men, the last farewell of the natives being invariably
accompanied by much pombe. However, they all turned up, and we got them
into some sort of order. I had brought from Nyassa sixteen boys--ten of
whom had been drilled for a few days by one of Mr. Mohun’s Zanzibari
sergeants--two of them were kitchen boys, and the other four gun-bearers
and tent-pitchers: this made our caravan one hundred and fifty strong.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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