From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
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From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
Sharp ignored the mosquitoes the first night, and in consequence
suffered severely from blood poisoning of the hands. The path led
through a fertile country, but as the high grass overhung the narrow
track, it was very wet travelling and not conducive to a speedy recovery
from fever. The way became gradually worse and we had many sharp rises
to face, and many small streams to cross, while satisfactory
camping-grounds were hard to find. On the fourth day, after a struggle
up an almost perpendicular hill, we camped at an elevation of nearly
6,000 ft., and obtained some lovely views over the country to the
east--high, tree-covered hills, with a few native huts and their
accompanying gardens in clearings where the ground was not too steep,
and, down below, deep valleys covered with dense bush--while to the west
we could just catch a glimpse of the lake backed by the rugged and
forbidding-looking hills on the Congo side.
A cold white mist came up in the afternoon, and put all thoughts of
scenery away, driving us to refuge in tightly-closed tents.
Next day we mounted still higher--about 7,000 ft.--and the scenery amply
repaid the exertion. From thence we made a rapid descent by a path so
steep and rough that we had to glissade at times with the aid of a
strong spear. At the villages here we found the people wearing wooden
tweezers on their noses; on inquiry we discovered that they injected
snuff mixed with water, and then put the apparatus on to keep the
concoction from wasting away at once. A day or two later we reached the
lake-shore, and the path, such as it was, came to an end. We now had to
make our way along the shingle. The bush overhung the water every few
yards, and as it was mostly mimosa, or other equally prickly matter, we
had to wade round to avoid it--often up to our middles in the
water--while an occasional mountain torrent necessitated our being
carried on our boys’ shoulders. As the lake was swarming with
crocodiles, this was rather exciting. Our Nyassa boys, who had earned
the name of the Guinea-fowls, owing to their dress of dark-blue
bird’s-eye cotton and greeny-blue fezzes, had been a great comfort,
pitching our tents and doing all the little odd jobs inseparable from
camp life, and we were congratulating ourselves on having some natives
of a different race to our Manyema porters.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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