From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
As we were approaching the north end of the lake, several attempts were
made to raid the camp at night, and at one place in particular the
thieves were very resolute, and succeeded in stealing many small things
from the boys. The sentry came and woke me up during the night, and
told me that persistent attempts were being made to enter the camp; so I
went out, and taking up my position outside the lines, under the cover
of a small bush, I succeeded in capturing one of the thieves by
collaring him low. This form of attack was unexpected, and though he
was greased he failed to escape. The following morning he was handed
over to the chief, and suffered the usual penalty of convicted thieves,
his head being cut off and placed on the path, as a warning to others.
This fortunate capture definitely settled the thieving question.
After crossing the Kashale, we entered the populous and fertile district
of Bugoie. The chief is variously called Gwamu or Mwami, and is now, as
I have before stated, one of the joint kings of Ruanda. All the way up
this coast the scenery is exquisite; nowhere, except in the sounds of
New Zealand, have I ever seen anything so fine, and the nearer we
approached to the mighty volcanoes, the more dazzlingly beautiful and
the more imposing it became.
At one of our camps we were besieged by an army of biting and poisonous
ants, and I was just turning in when they assaulted my tent. Countless
thousands swarmed all over my blankets and into my boxes and my clothes,
and over every available inch both of my person and belongings. Calling
my boys to my rescue, we endeavoured to save at least a blanket, and
fled precipitately. But so thick were they that it was impossible to
escape them. However, eventually the main body had moved on to other
people’s quarters, and I succeeded in rescuing my camp-bed, which I
fixed up in another tent with all four legs in basins of water; by this
means I managed to pass the night without more than three or four
hundred around me. Sharp, who at first had looked upon it as a great
joke, became the main object of their attentions during the small hours
of the morning.
Here the people became very friendly again, and one chief provided us
with two guides and two cattle-men, who undertook to go with us as far
as the northern slopes of the volcanoes. One of these guides and one of
the cattle-men bolted the following day with a few trifles, but the
other two stuck to us well, and found our company so agreeable that they
even followed me right through to the Nile, where they met a sad fate.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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