From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
Slightly to the north-west of this peak another volcano, covering an
enormous area, has formed since Count Götzen’s passage through the
country. He mentions considerable activity at the end of the ridge; and
two years before I passed through the country there had been a terrific
eruption, in the course of which this volcano formed; its crater is
several miles in circumference. I have described it as Mount Sharp,
after my fellow-traveller.
The eastern system is still more imposing. The four main peaks have
long been extinct, and the form of the highest, which I have described
as Mount Eyres, after Mrs. Eyres of Dumbleton Hall, Evesham, is very
striking, reminding me forcibly of the Matterhorn, as seen from the
Riffelalp. The height of Mount Eyres is over 13,000 ft., and its summit
was almost invariably covered with snow in the morning. A dense,
impenetrable forest runs up to a height of 11,500 ft., above which there
is open woodland. The actual summit, or last 500 ft., is practically
bare. The top has the appearance of slightly overhanging, and shows
some bold rock faces. The next volcano in the chain I have described as
Mount Kandt, after the eminent scientist who is making such exhaustive
studies of Ruanda and the north-west territories of the German sphere.
We insisted upon all our boys buying gourds for water, in case of there
being any difficulty in obtaining it on the road. The waterless stage
to be traversed was a long one, and we therefore only made a short
march, and camped at the last watering-place, which was about four miles
from the lake. This was the site of Gwamu’s village. Gwamu himself,
following the traditions of the Ruanda kings, retired to the mountains,
but left his headman to receive us with a handsome present of goats and
necessaries.
The population here was enormous, every available inch of country was
cultivated, and this portion of Bugoie is undoubtedly the most
prosperous, the most densely populated, and the most fertile spot that I
have seen in Africa.
Fifteen miles to the east, the range that encloses the Rift Valley
culminates in a striking peak. It is known to the natives as Hembe è
Bugogo. This peak is at a pronounced angle in the range; and northwards
the enclosing hills recede towards the east. The volcanoes themselves
are a quite distinct system, having risen out of the bed of the Rift
Valley.
On the following day we started on our waterless march with many
misgivings. Our route lay along the base of the hills, then over a
small chain of extinct volcanic craters, then across the flat, swampy
plain, which lies to the east of Mount Götzen. In all directions there
are isolated, extinct craters, still perfect in form, and invariably
terraced and covered with crops of peas and beans.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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