From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
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From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
This nettle, which, I believe, is peculiar to these volcanoes, is the
most appalling creation that I have ever dreamed of. Some were 10 ft.
in height, and it was impossible to brush them aside; they were covered
with myriads of long, almost invisible, spines, which penetrated khaki,
flannel, and everything except leather. The pain produced by contact
with them was nearly unbearable, but fortunately subsided in about ten
minutes. At times they were so bad that my natives could no longer
move, and I had to beat down a track before they could pass. Many times
they sat down and howled like babies. Some of the trees that had been
torn down by the elephant were of enormous dimensions, and I had never
before even guessed at the stupendous power of the African elephant.
I found that the country here was no easier than that which I had just
left, and therefore marched north down the long sloping spur that leads
into the valley of the Kako.
The district round the base of Mount Eyres is called Bwisha. It is
ruled by a powerful chief called Kahanga. His main village was
elaborately protected by a palisade, around which trees and creepers had
been planted to consolidate the structure, and it was surrounded by many
smaller villages. The whole of the adjacent country was densely planted
with banana, and all the intervening land was covered with fields of
peas, beans, and millet.
My track led down a small stream that flowed into the Mungawo, which is
the western head-waters of the Kako, as the southern part of the
Rutchuru is called; it is consequently one of the most distant sources
of the Albert Nile. The territory between the Mungawo and the Kako is
called Shoni; here I made many inquiries about elephant, and, as usual,
was informed that there were none actually there, but that there were
tremendous quantities elsewhere.
Kahanga was at first rather suspicious, but plucking up courage at the
insignificant proportions of my caravan, he eventually became very
communicative, and told off some men to guide me round the country.
Leaving this village I marched to the east, along the base of four
extinct volcanoes, to find out the real truth of the vexed question of
Mfumbiro.
Mfumbiro, as a mountain, is unknown to the natives, but I eventually
ascertained that it is merely a native word which means "The place where
there is fire." And when I reached the country where Mount Mfumbiro had
been supposed by an imaginative treaty-maker to be, I was informed that
"Mfumbiro" was used by the natives in that part to represent the
district of the active volcanoes.
In reaching my destination I passed through many almost impenetrable
forests of bamboo, and crossed the head-waters of the main stream of the
Kako. The natives appeared to be rather disturbed, and suspicious of my
intentions. With such a weak caravan I did not desire to have any
trouble; I therefore hastily retreated to the base of Mount Eyres once
more.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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