From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
After these two unsuccessful attempts to reach Mushari--first, north by
Kahanga’s country, and secondly, by the path that runs round the base of
Mount Götzen--I determined to cut straight across the lava-streams, in
spite of everything that the natives said to dissuade me. Lies, lies,
lies, I was sick to death of them, and resolved to go to Mushari by the
direct route, cost what it might, the behaviour of my pagazi,[#] which
caused my second attempt to fail, making me only the more determined to
show them that their little games were of no use. In vain I sent out to
the villages for guides, none were forthcoming; frightened, as I
afterwards discovered, by my boys, they obstinately assured me there was
no way across; that we should die of thirst, be eaten by lions, and so
forth, _ad nauseam_. I gave out orders that all my boys were to make
sandals, and prepare food and water for two days. In the morning
three-quarters of them hobbled up on sticks, pleading sickness; and when
I finally started, half of them burst into tears and swore that they
were not slaves, to be led into the wilderness to die. When we reached
the edge of the lava-stream, there were no shoes or food or water; but
when I once stepped on to the stones, the whole scene changed. Beads
were produced, natives with sandals for sale brought forth, guides
sprang up in bewildering plenty, and, as I had half suspected, I found
there was a well-used track across. There is one thing to be said for
the Manyema: they play their game right out to the end.
[#] Porters.
We went south-west for four hours across the eastern stream, making
about half a mile an hour; it is like a very broken glacier such as that
which lies under the north-west side of the Aiguille du Dru near
Chamounix, huge blocks of lava piled one upon the other, and sharp as
razors. The length is about twenty miles, and breadth about two in the
narrowest part. Further north it branches off to the east and west, the
western branch mingling with the great western stream about fifteen
miles from the pass between Mount Götzen and Mount Sharp. The natives
say that the lava came down two years ago, and that great numbers of
elephants were killed; I myself saw the bones of one in our
comparatively short traverse.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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