From the Indus to the Tigris : $b A narrative of a journey through the countries of Balochistan, Afghanistan, Khorassan and Iran, in 1872, together with a synoptical grammar and vocabulary of the Brahoe language, and a record of the meteorological observations and altitudes on the march from the Indus to the TigrisBellew, H. W. (Henry Walter)
History
From the Indus to the Tigris : $b A narrative of a journey through the countries of Balochistan, Afghanistan, Khorassan and Iran, in 1872, together with a synoptical grammar and vocabulary of the Brahoe language, and a record of the meteorological observations and altitudes on the march from the Indus to the Tigris
Bellew, H. W. (Henry Walter)
Afghanistan -- Description and travel; Balochistan (Pakistan) -- Description and travel; Bellew, H. W. (Henry Walter), 1834-1892; Brahui language; Iran -- Description and travel; Khurasan (Iran) -- Description and travel
Beyond this we crossed a low ridge of hills by a narrow and rough
strait, at the entrance to which we noticed a number of perfect _cháp_
circles, and four or five _cheda_ pillars—one of which, to the right
of our path, occupied a very conspicuous position on the ledge of a
prominent rock—and then entered on the wide and undulating tableland of
Azákhel and Súráb, on which are several villages and fruit-gardens, and
more cultivation than we have anywhere seen in this country as yet; in
fact, we here reached an inhabited region. Our path skirted the hills to
the east, and led past a roadside shrine called Lulla Sulemán ná Kher.
The head of the tomb is marked by four or five long poles, to which are
fastened numberless shreds of cloth, stuck upright in a heap of loose
stones, samples of the rocks of the surrounding mountains, and on the top
of them lie a number of horns of the wild goat and wild sheep. I stopped
to examine these, and amongst the stones found a fine fossil convoluted
conch, which I told an attendant trooper I wanted, and he, without
hesitation, took it up and brought it into camp, and I subsequently sent
it to Peshawar with some horns and other specimens from Kandahar, as
I shall have occasion to mention hereafter. I did not see any granite
amongst the stones on this shrine, and hence conclude that there is
none in the adjacent hills, for the pile is formed by contributions of
devotees from all the surrounding country.
Away to the right from Sulemán ná Kher we saw the villages and gardens of
Ghijdegán and Dhand, and farther on, passing the collection of hamlets
known as Nighár, at 2.45 P.M. arrived at Khán Calá of Súráb, where we
were very glad to find shelter in a dirty little hut vacated for us, and
thaw our frozen limbs. The last six miles of our march were most trying
from the intense cold and driving snow, and completely numbed us, so
that we could not have held out against it much longer. The north wind
is most piercing, and cuts to the very bones. It is called _Shomál bád_,
or “north wind” _par excellence_, by the natives, and is dreaded as
extremely dangerous, often proving fatal by numbing the powers of life.
The villagers expressed astonishment at our travelling in such weather,
and some of our Khozdár escort chimed in with, “It’s only the Sáhibs who
ever think of doing such things; and when they go forward, we must follow
them. Surely there is a special providence that presides over their
protection.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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