The street into which Ramirez plunged at first sight appeared almost
impassable, and but for a certain regularity in the parallels of
irregular, oddly-built houses, its original intention as a thoroughfare
might have been open to grave doubt. It was dirty, it was muddy, it was
ill-lighted; it was rocky and precipitous in some places, and sandy and
monotonous in others. The grade had been changed two or three times, and
each time apparently for the worse, but always with a noble disregard
for the dwellings, which were invariably treated as an accident in the
original design, or as obstacles to be overcome at any hazard. The near
result of this large intent was to isolate some houses completely, to
render others utterly inaccessible except by scaling ladders, and to
produce the general impression that they were begun at the top and built
down. The remoter effect was to place the locality under a social ban,
and work a kind of outlawry among the inhabitants. Several of the houses
were originally occupied by the Spanish native Californians, who, with
the conservative instincts of their race, still clung to their _casas_
after the Americans had flown to pastures new and less rocky and
inaccessible beyond. Their vacant places were again filled by other
native Californians, through that social law which draws the members of
an inferior and politically degraded race into gregarious solitude and
isolation, and the locality became known as the Spanish Quarter. That
they lived in houses utterly inconsistent with their habits and tastes,
that they affected a locality utterly foreign to their inclinations or
customs, was not the least pathetic and grotesque element to a
contemplative observer.
Before, or rather beneath one of these structures, Mr. Ramirez stopped,
and began the ascent of a long flight of wooden steps, that at last
brought him to the foundations of the dwelling. Another equally long
exterior staircase brought him at last to the verandah or gallery of the
second story, the first being partly hidden by an embankment. Here Mr.
Ramirez discovered another flight of narrower steps leading down to a
platform before the front door. It was open. In the hall-way two or
three dark-faced men were lounging, smoking _cigaritos_, and enjoying,
in spite of the fog, the apparently unsociable _négligé_ of shirt
sleeves and no collars. At the open front windows of the parlour two or
three women were sitting, clad in the lightest and whitest of flounced
muslin skirts, with heavy shawls over their heads and shoulders, as if
summer had stopped at their waists, like an equator.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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