Galicia, the Switzerland of SpainMeakin, Annette M. B.
History
Galicia, the Switzerland of Spain
Meakin, Annette M. B.
Galicia (Spain : Region)
The arches outside prove nothing, for they do not date farther back than
the middle of the seventeenth century. If this leaning had been the
result of sinking foundations, the vaulting would have cracked, and the
pillars would have been broken to pieces. But the present Gothic
vaulting is not so old as the walls; it was added in 1485-1504, when
Gomez Gonzalez was its prior, as the inscription and coat of arms near
the keystone of the arch next to the _Capilla Mayor_ testify. Is it
likely that any architect would have added such vaulting had the walls
really been falling? Besides, in none of the manuscripts preserved for
so many centuries in the archives of the _Colegiata_ is there any
mention of this extraordinary inclination nor of any catastrophe
connected with it. This silence favours the belief that the whole thing
is intentional, and a feat of architectural skill. Then, too, if the
sinking had been accidental, the inclination of the walls and pillars
would have been inwards, not, as is the case, outwards. So much for the
accepted theory.
The word “bandy-legged” is not, admittedly, an architectural term, yet
it is the most appropriate epithet I can find to bring before my readers
the peculiar inward inclination of the piers and walls of this church.
The man who fetched the keys and showed me round may have been an
ignorant fellow, but he at least saw no mystery about the structure of
his parish church: he pointed out to me that the river Sar not only ran
very close to the edifice, but filtered into the ground beneath it. The
wooden floor which I beheld was six feet higher than the original floor;
it had been raised on account of the water, and completely hid the bases
of the piers. Had the whole depth of the pillars been visible, their
inclination, or, rather, the bow in their legs, would have been much
more striking even than it is at present. “The foundations could be
drained,” said the man, “but it would cost lots of money”; and so
saying, he opened a trap door in the central nave and let me look down.
It was like the dungeon floor in the Doge’s Palace at Venice. “You see,
with all that water, it’s quite natural that the building should get
shunted a bit,” he continued.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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