Galicia, the Switzerland of SpainMeakin, Annette M. B.
History
Galicia, the Switzerland of Spain
Meakin, Annette M. B.
Galicia (Spain : Region)
All the passengers we found on board the _König Fredrick August_ were
bound for Buenos Ayres or the neighbouring States. We alone were bound
for Spain. Ours was a journey of two,[180] theirs of twenty-two, days.
We were the only English; every one else was either German or Spanish
South American. Here was a favourable opportunity of comparing Teuton
and Latin types. As we paced the deck in brilliant sunshine the
following day, I noticed that the Spanish were decidedly short and
slight of stature, with sallow, almost bilious complexions, black hair,
and large and brilliant dark eyes; while the Germans were tall and
thick-set, with florid complexions, light sandy hair, and blue eyes. The
cooking on board was quite German, so we subsisted for those two days
principally upon apples and grapes, both being abundant and excellent in
quality. A German band performed lively airs during dinner each evening,
and enabled us to forget somewhat the motion of the vessel. Our cheerful
and airy cabin was fitted up regardless of expense with every possible
convenience, including an air-fan, a telephone, and an electric
hair-curling apparatus; and, in addition, an amiable stewardess flew to
execute our every wish. The dreadful Bay of Biscay behaved like a lamb,
and the vessel carried us from Southampton to Coruña as steadily as if
she had run on rails. Yet, though the sun was shining and the weather
calm, we could see great foaming waves dash steeple-high against the
rocks of Brest as we passed well out to sea. Only a few days before
there had blown a terrible gale in that very corner of the Bay, and a
fishing smack had been wrecked near San Sebastian. We slept both nights
with our port-holes open, but repented of this when, at about 10 a.m. on
the second morning, a great wave washed in upon us, flooding the floor
and drenching all our belongings, including the clothes in which we were
to land. Pails of water were taken up from the floor by an angry steward
after our soaking carpet had been removed, and we had to remain in our
berths till lunch time, when our apparel was brought back to us from the
drying-room. Traces of rust on our keys and on the fittings of our
travelling-bags, which were filled with water when the wave entered,
still remind us that sleeping with open port-holes in the Bay of Biscay
is a dangerous pleasure.
At 3 p.m. on January 12 we steamed into the horseshoe harbour of Coruña,
our band playing a lively march. To our right we passed the majestic
lighthouse known as the Pillar of Hercules, a sight to rivet every eye;
and there before us was the town upon whose ramparts the brave Sir John
Moore was buried by his comrades.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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