Galicia, the Switzerland of SpainMeakin, Annette M. B.
History
Galicia, the Switzerland of Spain
Meakin, Annette M. B.
Galicia (Spain : Region)
Besides the important edifices to which I have devoted several of my
earlier chapters, Santiago possesses a good many interesting churches,
and is rich in convents for women, which also deserve a brief notice.
The _Capilla de Las Animas_ is a church dedicated to prayer for souls
passing through purgatory; it was built towards the end of the
eighteenth century, and is in the Greco-Roman style. Four tall Doric
columns support its pediment, which is crowned with a cross and a statue
of an adoring angel on either side. But the most striking thing about
this façade is the alto-relief group of souls wrapt in purgatorial
flames above the entrance. The interior of this church is lined with
remarkable alto-relief, life-size, brightly painted wooden figures in
groups, representing the principal scenes connected with the
Crucifixion. They are the work of Prado, a Gallegan sculptor. This
church has always had immense attractions for pilgrims, both rich and
poor. More masses are said there than in any church in the town except
the Cathedral; they begin at five in winter and at four in summer. Close
to the church is the _Plaza de Cervantes_, with a bust of the author of
_Don Quixote_ on a column above a fountain from which hundreds of women
and girls come to fill their buckets every morning. To the east is the
little church of _San Benito_, now considered to be the oldest in
Santiago, which has recently been restored under the auspices of a
clever archæologist.
Santiago has a pleasant Alameda lined with four rows of camellias and
many fine trees. Here a band plays on fine afternoons, and here the
ladies of the town, who seldom appear in the streets before four in the
afternoon, may be seen sauntering under enormous hats. I had been three
weeks in Santiago before I saw a woman in a hat, for the ladies who go
to early Mass always appeared in black mantillas, and the poor women
wore handkerchiefs. The Alameda winds round a hill planted with oak
trees, in the centre of which stands a tiny church, _Santa Susana_. The
original edifice was built by Gelmirez in 1105, and bore the name of
_Santo Sepulcro_ until the remains of Santa Susana were brought to
Santiago from Braga three years later. Santa Susana is one of the patron
saints of Santiago. Sanchez states that the present portico of the
church is the one built by Gelmirez, and that some of the arches also
date from his day; but as it was always closed when I tried to enter it
I can give no opinion. The finest view obtainable of Santiago and its
Cathedral is from this Alameda, and no visitor should miss it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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