Galicia, the Switzerland of SpainMeakin, Annette M. B.
History
Galicia, the Switzerland of Spain
Meakin, Annette M. B.
Galicia (Spain : Region)
I have already alluded to the fine Square called _Plaza de Alonso XII._,
of which the façade of the _Hospital Real_ and the Churrigueresque
façade of the cathedral form two sides. Its other two sides are formed
by the handsome _Consistorio_, which faces the Cathedral, and the façade
of the _Colegio de San Jerónimo_. This last-named building dates from
the first or second decade of the sixteenth century, and its striking
façade is a mixture of the Romanesque and the Græco-Roman styles. At
present the principal entrance is in the _Calle del Franco_, not far
from that of the adjoining _Colegio de Fonseca_, and it is used as a
normal school for boys, but it was formerly a college for poor students.
An inscription on the southern wall of the Doric cloister tells us that
in the year 1652 the ancient college of San Gerónimo (St. Jerome) was
moved to this building. That was at the time when the monks of _San
Martin Pinario_ were buying up the buildings round their monastery in
order that the latter might be enlarged.
When Philip II. was negotiating with England for the hand of our Queen
Mary, he awaited in Santiago the return of his ambassadors, and was
entertained at the _Hospital Real_ in the suite of rooms set apart for
the reception of royalty. A curious account of Philip’s visit has just
come to light in the pages of a diary kept by a village priest of that
period. The document was accidentally discovered in a country rectory
and handed to Dr. Eladio Oviedo, who, it is to be hoped, will shortly
publish it, with valuable annotations. The writer, Amaro Gonzalez, was a
_cura_ of Carril, in Galicia, and his entries in his diary remind us of
those of Pepys. “In the year of our Lord fifteen hundred and
fifty-four,” he writes, “on the twenty-second of June, King Philip
entered the city of Santiago....” and he goes on to tell how on the
following day the whole company attended Mass in the Cathedral, and how,
after dinner, they were entertained by a bull fight in the _Plaza de
Alonso XII._, the King watching from one of the lower windows of the
Hospital. Three days later the Royal party embarked at Coruña and set
sail for England with a great fleet.[210] In an earlier entry he tells
how “a corsair coming from England, under the command of Drake, did much
damage,” which he says he cannot attempt to describe. “Drake came with
seventy ships, I believe he wants to intercept the king’s ships that are
coming with gold from America.” And later on he writes: “An Armada is
being fitted out against Lutheran England and against that Lutheran ----
Isabel” (our good Queen Bess!). The word he uses is too insulting to be
translated. In another place he describes a very hard winter, followed
by a remarkably cold summer, “so cold that in the hottest days of the
year it was too cold to walk to church.” He adds naïvely that all the
things he writes about happened in his own days, and, as it were, before
his very eyes, and that he writes them down because (unlike Pepys) he
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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