The _olla_ is only well made in Andalucia, and there alone in careful,
well-appointed houses; it is called a _puchero_ in the rest of Spain,
where it is but a poor affair, made of dry beef, or rather cow, boiled
with _garbanzos_ or chick peas, and a few sausages. These _garbanzos_
are the vegetable, the potato of the land; and their use argues a low
state of horticultural knowledge. The taste for them was introduced by
the Carthaginians--the _puls punica_, which (like the _fides punica_, an
especial ingredient in all Spanish governments and finance) afforded
such merriment to Plautus, that he introduced the chick-pea eating
Pœnus, pultiphagonides, speaking Punic, just as Shakspere did the
toasted-cheese eating Welshman talking Welsh. These garbanzos require
much soaking, being otherwise hard as bullets; indeed, a lively
Frenchman, after what he calls an apology for a dinner, compared them,
in his empty stomach, as he was jumbled away in the dilly, to peas
rattling in a child’s drum.
The veritable _olla_--the ancient time-honoured _olla podrida_, or pot
pourri--the epithet is now obsolete--is difficult to be made: a
tolerable one is never to be eaten out of Spain, since it requires many
Spanish things to concoct it, and much care; the cook must throw his
whole soul into the pan, or rather pot; it may be made in one, but two
are better. They must be of earthenware; for, like the French _pot au
feu_, the dish is good for nothing when made in an iron or copper
vessel; take therefore two, and put them on their separate stoves with
water.
[Sidenote: THE OLLA PODRIDA.]
Place into No. 1, _Garbanzos_, which have been placed to soak
over-night. Add a good piece of beef, a chicken, a large piece of bacon;
let it boil once and quickly; then let it simmer: it requires four or
five hours to be well done. Meanwhile place into No. 2, with water,
whatever vegetables are to be had: lettuces, cabbage, a slice of gourd,
of beef, carrots, beans, celery, endive, onions and garlic, long
peppers. These must be previously well washed and cut, as if they were
destined to make a salad; then add red sausages, or “_chorizos_;” half a
salted pig’s face, which should have been soaked over-night. When all is
sufficiently boiled, strain off the water, and throw it away. Remember
constantly to skim the scum of both saucepans. When all this is
sufficiently dressed, take a large dish, lay in the bottom the
vegetables, the beef in the centre, flanked by the bacon, chicken, and
pig’s face. The sausages should be arranged around, en couronne; pour
over some of the soup of No. 1, and serve hot, as Horace did: “Uncta
satis--ponuntur oluscula lardo.” No violets come up to the perfume which
a coming olla casts before it; the mouth-watering bystanders sigh, as
they see and smell the rich freight steaming away from them.
[Sidenote: BACON.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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