Any remarks on Spanish salads would be incomplete without some account
of _gazpacho_, that vegetable soup, or floating salad, which during the
summer forms the food of the bulk of the people in the torrid portions
of Spain. This dish is of Arabic origin, as its name, “soaked bread,”
implies. This most ancient Oriental Roman and Moorish refection is
composed of onions, garlic, cucumbers, chilis, all chopped up very small
and mixed with crumbs of bread, and then put into a bowl of oil,
vinegar, and fresh water. Reapers and agricultural labourers could never
stand the sun’s fire without this cooling acetous diet. This was the
οξυκρατος of the Greeks, the _posca_, potable food, meat and
drink, _potus et esca_, which formed part of the rations of the Roman
soldiers, and which Adrian (a Spaniard) delighted to share with them,
and into which Boaz at meal-time invited Ruth to dip her morsel. Dr.
Buchanan found some Syrian Christians who still called it _ail_, _ail_,
_Hil_, _Hila_, for which our Saviour was supposed to have called on the
Cross, when those who understood that dialect gave it him from the
vessel which was full of it for the guard. In Andalucia, during the
summer, a bowl of gazpacho is commonly ready in every house of an
evening, and is partaken of by every person who comes in. It is not
easily digested by strangers, who do not require it quite so much as the
natives, whose souls are more parched and dried up, and who perspire
less. The components, oil, vinegar, and bread, are all that is given out
to the lower class of labourers by farmers who profess to feed them; two
cow’s horns, the most primitive form of bottle and cup, are constantly
seen suspended on each side of their carts, and contain this provision,
with which they compound their _migas_: this consists of crumbs of bread
fried in oil, with pepper and garlic; nor can a stronger proof be given
of the common poverty of their fare than the common expression, “_buenas
migas hay_,” there are _good crumbs_, being equivalent to capital
eating. In very cold weather the mess is warmed, and then is called
_gazpacho caliente_. Oh! dura messorum ilia--oh! the iron mess digesting
stomachs of ploughmen.
[Sidenote: WATER.]
CHAPTER XII.
Drinks of Spain--Water--Irrigation--Fountains--Spanish
Thirstiness--The Alcarraza--Water Carriers--Ablutions--Spanish
Chocolate--Agraz--Beer Lemonade.
In dipping into Spanish liquids we shall not mix wine with water, but
keep them separate, as most Spaniards do; the latter is entitled to rank
first, by those who prefer the opinion of Pindar, who held water to be
the best of things, to that of Anacreon, who was not member of any
temperance society. The profound regard for water of a Spaniard is quite
Oriental; at the same time, as his blood is partly Gothic and partly
Arab, his allegiance is equally mixed and divided; thus, if he adores
the juice of flints like a Moslem, he venerates the juice of the grape
like a German.
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