The wines of Spain deserve a chapter to themselves. Sherry indeed is not
less popular among us than Murillo, in spite of the numbers of bad
copies of the one, which are passed off for undoubted originals, and
butts of the other, which are sold neat as imported. The Spaniard
himself is neither curious in port, nor particular in Madeira; he
prefers quantity to quality, and loves flavour much less than he hates
trouble; a cellar in a private house, of rare fine or foreign wines, is
perhaps a greater curiosity than a library of ditto books; an hidalgo
with twenty names simply sends out before his frugal meal for a quart of
wine to the nearest shop, as a small burgess does in the City for a pint
of porter. Local in every thing, the Spaniard takes the goods that the
gods provide him, just as they come to hand; he drinks the wine that
grows in the nearest vineyards, and if there are none, then regales
himself with the water from the least distant spring. It is so in
everything; he adds the smallest possible exertion of his own to the
bounties of nature; his object is to obtain the largest produce for the
smallest labour; he allows a life-conferring sun and a fertile soil to
create for him the raw material, which he exports, being perfectly
contented that the foreigner should return it to him when recreated by
art and industry; thus his wool, barilla, hides, and cork-bark, are
imported by him back again in the form of cloth, glass, leather, and
bungs.
[Sidenote: WINES OF SPAIN.]
The most celebrated and perfect wines of the Peninsula are port and
sherry, which owe their excellence to foreign, not to native skill, the
principal growers and makers being Europeans, and their system
altogether un-Spanish; nothing can be more rude, antique, and
unscientific, than the wine-making in those localities where no
stranger has ever settled. But Spain is a land bottled up for
antiquarians, and it must be confessed that the national process is very
picturesque and classical; no Ariadne revel of Titian is more glittering
or animated, no bas-relief more classical in which sacrifices are
celebrated
“To Bacchus, who first from out the purple grape
Crushed the sweet poison of misused wine.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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