The quality of the wine depends on the grape and the soil, which has
been examined and analysed by competent chemists. Omitting minute and
uninteresting particulars, the first class and the best is termed the
_Albariza_; this whitish soil is composed of clay mixed with carbonate
of lime and silex. The second sort is called _Barras_, and consists of
sandy quartz, mixed with lime and oxide of iron. The third is the
_Arenas_, being, as the name indicates, little better than sand, and is
by far the most widely extended, especially about San Lucar, Rota, and
the back of Arcos; it is the most productive, although the wine is
generally coarse, thin, and ill-flavoured, and seldom improves after the
third year: it forms the substratum of those inferior sherries which are
largely exported to the discredit of the real article. The fourth class
of soil is limited in extent, and is the _Bugeo_, or dark-brown loamy
sand which occurs on the sides of rivulets and hillocks. The wine grown
on it is poor and weak; yet all the inferior produces of these different
districts are sold as sherry wines, to the great detriment of those
really produced near Xerez itself, which do not amount to a fifth of the
quantity exported.
[Sidenote: VINES OF ANDALUCIA.]
The varieties of the grape are far greater than those of the soil on
which they are grown. Of more than a hundred different kinds, those
called _Listan_ and _Palomina Blanca_ are the best. The increased demand
for sherry, where the producing surface is limited, has led to the
extirpation of many vines of an inferior kind, which have been replaced
by new ones whose produce is of a larger and better quality. The _Pedro
Ximenez_, or delicious sweet-tasted grape which is so celebrated, came
originally from Madeira, and was planted on the Rhine, from whence about
two centuries ago one Peter Simon brought it to Malaga, since when it
has extended over the south of Spain. It is of this grape that the rich
and luscious sweet wine called _Pajarete_ is made; a name which some
have erroneously derived from _Pajaros_, the birds, who are wont to pick
the ripest berries; but it was so called from the wine having been
originally only made at Paxarete, a small spot near Xerez: it is now
prepared everywhere, and thus the grapes are dried in the sun until they
almost become raisins, and the syrop quite inspissated, after that they
are pressed, and a little fine old wine and brandy is added. This wine
is extremely costly, as it is much used in the rearing and maturation of
young sherry wines.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account