The highest qualities of flavour depend on the grape and soil, and as
the favoured spots are limited, and the struggle and competition for
their acquisition great, the prices paid are always high, and
occasionally extravagantly so; the proprietors of vineyards are very
numerous, and the surface is split and partitioned into infinite petty
ownerships. Even the _Pago de Macharnudo_, the finest of all, the Clos
de Vougeot, the Johannisberg of Xerez, is much subdivided; it consists
of 1200 _aranzadas_, one of which may be taken as equivalent to our
acre, being, however, that quantity of land which can be ploughed with a
pair of bullocks in a day--of these 1200, 460 belong to the great house
of Pedro Domecq, and their mean produce may be taken at 1895 butts, of
which some 350 only will run very fine. Among the next most renowned
_pagos_, or wine districts, may be cited Carrascal, Los Tercios,
Barbiana _alta y baja_, Añina, San Julian, Mochiele, Carraola, Cruz del
Husillo, which lie in the immediate _termino_ or boundary of Xerez;
their produce always ensures high prices in the market. Many of these
vineyards are fenced with canes, the _arundo donax_, or with aloes,
whose stiff-pointed leaves form palisadoes that would defy a regiment of
dragoons, and are called by the natives the devil’s toothpicks; in
addition, the _capataz del campo_, or country bailiff, is provided, like
a keeper, with large and ferocious dogs, who would tear an intruder to
pieces. The fruit when nearly mature is especially watched; for,
according to the proverb, it requires much vigilance to take care of
ripe grapes and maidens--_Niñas y vinos, son mal de guardar_.
[Sidenote: THE VINTAGE.]
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