and others good; those only which exhibit great delicacy, body, and flavour are called _finos_ or fine; in a lot of one hundred butts, rarely more than from ten to fifteen can be calculated as deserving this epithet, and it is to the high price paid for these by the _almacenistas_ or storers of wines, that the grower looks for remuneration; the qualities of the wines usually produced in each particular _termino_ or district do not vary much; they have their regular character and prices among the trade, by whom they are perfectly understood and exactly valued. These singular changes in the juice of grapes grown on the same vineyard, invariably take place, although no satisfactory reason has been yet assigned; the chemical processes of nature have hitherto defied the investigations of man, and in nothing more than in the elaboration of that lusus naturæ vel Bacchi, that variety of flavour which goes by the name of _amontillado_; this has been given to it from its resemblance in dryness and quality to the wines of _Montilla_, near Cordova: the latter, be it observed, are scarcely known in England at all, nor indeed in Spain, except in their own immediate neighbourhood, where they supply the local consumption. This _amontillado_, when the genuine production of nature, is very valuable, as it is used in correcting young Sherry wines, which are running over sweet; it is very scarce, since out of a hundred butts of _vino fino_, not more than five will possess its properties. Much of the wine which is sold in London as pure _amontillado_, is a fictitious preparation, and made up for the British market. [Sidenote: THE CAPATAZ.]