Why the public accommodations should be second-rate is soon explained.
Nature and the natives have long combined to isolate still more their
Peninsula, which already is moated round by the unsocial sea, and is
barricadoed by almost impassable mountains. The Inquisition all but
reduced Spanish man to the condition of a monk in a wall-enclosed
convent, by standing sentinel, and keeping watch and ward against the
foreigner and his perilous novelties;[7] Spain thus unvisited and
unvisiting, became arranged for Spaniards only, and has scarcely
required conveniences which are more suited to the curious wants of
other Europeans and strangers who here are neither liked, wished for,
nor even thought of, by natives who seldom travel except on compulsion
and never for amusement; why indeed should they? since Spain is
paradise, and each man’s own parish in his eyes is the central spot of
its glory. When the noble and rich visited the provinces, they were
lodged in their own or in their friends’ houses, just as the clergy and
monks were received into convents. The great bulk of the Peninsular
family, not being overburdened with cash or fastidiousness, have long
been and are inured to infinite inconveniences and negations; they live
at home in an abundance of privations, and expect when abroad to be
worse off; and they well know that comfort never lodges at a Spanish
inn; as in the East, they cannot conceive that any travelling should be
unattended by hardships, which they endure with Oriental resignation, as
_cosas de España_, or things of Spain which have always been so, and for
which there is no remedy but patient resignation; the bliss of
ignorance, and the not knowing of anything better, is everywhere the
grand secret of absence of discontent; while to those whose every-day
life is a feast, every thing that does not come up to their conventional
ideas becomes a failure, but to those whose daily bread is dry and
scanty, whose drink is water, every thing beyond prison-fare appears to
be luxury.
In Spain there has been little demand for those accommodations which
have been introduced on the continent by our nomade countrymen, who
carry their tea, towels, carpets, comforts and civilization with them;
to travel at all for mere pleasure is quite a modern invention, and
being an expensive affair, is the most indulged in by the English,
because they can best afford it, but as Spain lies out of their
hackneyed routes, the inns still retain much of the same state of
primitive dirt and discomfort, which most of those on the continent
presented, until repolished by our hints and guineas.
[Sidenote: THE FONDA.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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